28th February
A bit cooler this morning, so we rode with our jacket liners in for a while on the trip along CA1 towards the border. Once we lost a bit of altitude in warmed up though, still a nice blue sky all the way. We were using our Visa card for everything now as we only had a few Quetzals left, (about $2 worth), and didn’t want to get slugged with ATM fees for a withdrawal we didn’t really want. One fuel stop to go, and we managed to use our card on it as well, winner. Arriving at the border, we rode through a gate where no-one wanted to see our passports, vehicle docs, or even wanted to talk to us, so we pulled up at a coned off section where they wanted pesos to spray our bikes, but we didn’t have any. We offered the remaining Quetzals, but they didn’t want that. After a standoff for a while, they sprayed the bikes, and waved us on, so we headed on into Mexico. We rode on through a market crawling with people and stalls on the road, it was just wide enough for a vehicle to get through if no one was standing at on the road. Of course that never happened, so there was a lot of yelling, honking, and screaming, and even more people ignoring it all and doing what they wanted. This is all in no man’s land, so no one gives a toss, and they all get away with it. Eventually we were spat out the other side of this shitfight, and rode about 3 kms to the Mexican gate, where things were different. We pulled up at customs, and were told we had to go back and get our passports stamped out of Guatemala, before we could enter Mexico. Shit, that meant we had to go back through that heaving maelstrom of people to the gate of ignore all, and start again. Back we went, but because we were going the other way, we were directed to the enter Guatemala side, which was not where we wanted to be. After words with Spanish only speaking officials who would have none of us going the other way, we rode through where we shouldn’t go, and got back to the gate of ignorance. From there we found a guy who spoke some english, and with the help of paper and pen explained what we wanted. From there it was a simple process, stamp the passports out, and hand in the stickers and paperwork for the bikes. That cleared us from Guatemala, then just ride back through the seething pit of market people and back down the hill to the Mexican side. The dudes that sprayed the bikes didn’t even to look at us when we passed again, I think they had had enough of us. At the Mexican side it was easy, Stamp passports in, go to the building next door and show our deposit docs from where we entered Mexico from the US, they checked them, the VIN numbers on the bikes, and that was it, vamos into Mexico. It was now about 1.00pm, so we rode on for a while, getting back into the habit of riding over the million topes they put in all the little villages on the way, eventually stopping for fuel and an ice cream, before arriving at San Cristobal around 4.30pm. A short time later we had found a nice little hotel, cheap, and settled in for the night.
A bit cooler this morning, so we rode with our jacket liners in for a while on the trip along CA1 towards the border. Once we lost a bit of altitude in warmed up though, still a nice blue sky all the way. We were using our Visa card for everything now as we only had a few Quetzals left, (about $2 worth), and didn’t want to get slugged with ATM fees for a withdrawal we didn’t really want. One fuel stop to go, and we managed to use our card on it as well, winner. Arriving at the border, we rode through a gate where no-one wanted to see our passports, vehicle docs, or even wanted to talk to us, so we pulled up at a coned off section where they wanted pesos to spray our bikes, but we didn’t have any. We offered the remaining Quetzals, but they didn’t want that. After a standoff for a while, they sprayed the bikes, and waved us on, so we headed on into Mexico. We rode on through a market crawling with people and stalls on the road, it was just wide enough for a vehicle to get through if no one was standing at on the road. Of course that never happened, so there was a lot of yelling, honking, and screaming, and even more people ignoring it all and doing what they wanted. This is all in no man’s land, so no one gives a toss, and they all get away with it. Eventually we were spat out the other side of this shitfight, and rode about 3 kms to the Mexican gate, where things were different. We pulled up at customs, and were told we had to go back and get our passports stamped out of Guatemala, before we could enter Mexico. Shit, that meant we had to go back through that heaving maelstrom of people to the gate of ignore all, and start again. Back we went, but because we were going the other way, we were directed to the enter Guatemala side, which was not where we wanted to be. After words with Spanish only speaking officials who would have none of us going the other way, we rode through where we shouldn’t go, and got back to the gate of ignorance. From there we found a guy who spoke some english, and with the help of paper and pen explained what we wanted. From there it was a simple process, stamp the passports out, and hand in the stickers and paperwork for the bikes. That cleared us from Guatemala, then just ride back through the seething pit of market people and back down the hill to the Mexican side. The dudes that sprayed the bikes didn’t even to look at us when we passed again, I think they had had enough of us. At the Mexican side it was easy, Stamp passports in, go to the building next door and show our deposit docs from where we entered Mexico from the US, they checked them, the VIN numbers on the bikes, and that was it, vamos into Mexico. It was now about 1.00pm, so we rode on for a while, getting back into the habit of riding over the million topes they put in all the little villages on the way, eventually stopping for fuel and an ice cream, before arriving at San Cristobal around 4.30pm. A short time later we had found a nice little hotel, cheap, and settled in for the night.
1-2nd March
We spent a couple of days here looking around the town, doing laundry, (including our riding suits, which were now very dirty and smelly), and did a day tour to the gorge at Tuxla, well worth it. It cost us 270 Pesos each, (about $18 aud), which included transport 56 kms each way to Tuxla, entrance to the national park, and a 2 hour boat trip up through the canyon and back. Also a visit to a nearby village for some lunch, and a look around at the square, and a convent out the back. Good value, the canyon was great, very impressive, with vertical walls going straight up for 1,000 metres. Apparently when the spaniards conquered the area way back, some of the local indigenous people committed suicide by jumping off the top, rather than become slaves to the Spanish. There were a couple of crocodiles on the river bank as well, so the boat went over nice and close for us to have a look at them. That night we went out to dinner with a couple we met from Seattle, Billy and Suzy, frequent visitors to Mexico, and avid sailors, who live on their 39 ft yacht when they are back up in Oregon. Too much to drink again, and lots of laughs all night. All in all, a good day.
We spent a couple of days here looking around the town, doing laundry, (including our riding suits, which were now very dirty and smelly), and did a day tour to the gorge at Tuxla, well worth it. It cost us 270 Pesos each, (about $18 aud), which included transport 56 kms each way to Tuxla, entrance to the national park, and a 2 hour boat trip up through the canyon and back. Also a visit to a nearby village for some lunch, and a look around at the square, and a convent out the back. Good value, the canyon was great, very impressive, with vertical walls going straight up for 1,000 metres. Apparently when the spaniards conquered the area way back, some of the local indigenous people committed suicide by jumping off the top, rather than become slaves to the Spanish. There were a couple of crocodiles on the river bank as well, so the boat went over nice and close for us to have a look at them. That night we went out to dinner with a couple we met from Seattle, Billy and Suzy, frequent visitors to Mexico, and avid sailors, who live on their 39 ft yacht when they are back up in Oregon. Too much to drink again, and lots of laughs all night. All in all, a good day.
The bikes in the foyer of the hotel, the reception desk is at the top
Heading into the gorge
One of the locals.....
Unusual rock formations on the wall of the gorge
Discussing the trip with Billy
The square in San Cristobal at night
3
We had planned to ride up to Palenque today, but have been told that there is some unrest in the area, and there have been some kidnappings and robberies from the same road we planned to ride. It would have meant a huge deviation in our trip, and meant missing out on seeing the Agua Azul, some pretty spectacular waterfalls between Ocosingo and Palenque. After a lengthy discussion, and checking with a couple of locals, we decided to do the road anyway. The weather was fine, but cool, as we were at 2,400 metres above sea level, and the ride went well until just before Ocosingo. The traffic was banked up for kilometres, and we thought there must have been an accident, so rode up beside the traffic until we got to the front. There was a roadblock, with some signs we couldn’t read, and a truck parked across the road so no one could get through. Lots of people milling around, but no guns in sight, so we eased our way through the crowd, around the signs, across in front of the truck, and squeezed between it and the drop off on the edge of the road. No one tried to stop us, and once we were passed the truck, one side of the road was clear, so we kept going, and soon cleared the area. A drink stop in town, then we headed on to the waterfalls, arriving at around 2.30. It was quite a pretty place, and there were a few people there, but as with most tourist hot spots, there were more vendors selling food, jewellery, tee shirts, handicrafts, etc, than there were customers. After 19 people had tried to sell us bananas, we were glad to walk passed the throng to the top of the falls. They are not all that high, but fairly wide, and cascade down through a variety of pools, with the water a bluey colour due to high concentration of minerals in it. All the rocks they flow over are a light browny colour, and together they look pretty special. I haven’t seen any others like them anywhere else in the world. There is some accommodation there, but we decided to keep going, and headed off towards Palenque. Travelling along the road, we came across a girl with a string pulled up around waist high across the road, trying to stop us for money. We weren’t stopping, as we had no idea who might have hiding in the bushes, so headed for her, and as soon she realised we weren’t stopping, she dropped the string, and we rode over it and kept going. A similar thing happened about 20 kms further along the road, this time manned by a group of people, but the same result, we just kept going, and they dropped the rope. Not far before Palenque, there was sign advertising Misol-Ha, some more waterfalls, it was only 1.5 kms off the road, so we head in to them. Just down the road we were stopped and asked for payment for entry, so we paid the fee, 20 pesos, about $1.20 aud. We rode on, and lo and behold, more people asking for an entry fee. They were told where they could stick the waterfall, we did a quick U turn, and were out of there. It isn’t the money, it’s the principle, if they get their shit together, and combine the fees, people wouldn’t mind paying, it isn’t expensive, but when it seems that everywhere you turn someone has their hand out, we dig our heels in and pay no one. I think the attempted road blocks with ropes just put us in the wrong frame of mind for this. Anyway, we rode into Palenque, and quickly found a hotel. Although we had only ridden about 250 kms, we were both tired, so bought a cooked chook for tea, and had an early night.
We had planned to ride up to Palenque today, but have been told that there is some unrest in the area, and there have been some kidnappings and robberies from the same road we planned to ride. It would have meant a huge deviation in our trip, and meant missing out on seeing the Agua Azul, some pretty spectacular waterfalls between Ocosingo and Palenque. After a lengthy discussion, and checking with a couple of locals, we decided to do the road anyway. The weather was fine, but cool, as we were at 2,400 metres above sea level, and the ride went well until just before Ocosingo. The traffic was banked up for kilometres, and we thought there must have been an accident, so rode up beside the traffic until we got to the front. There was a roadblock, with some signs we couldn’t read, and a truck parked across the road so no one could get through. Lots of people milling around, but no guns in sight, so we eased our way through the crowd, around the signs, across in front of the truck, and squeezed between it and the drop off on the edge of the road. No one tried to stop us, and once we were passed the truck, one side of the road was clear, so we kept going, and soon cleared the area. A drink stop in town, then we headed on to the waterfalls, arriving at around 2.30. It was quite a pretty place, and there were a few people there, but as with most tourist hot spots, there were more vendors selling food, jewellery, tee shirts, handicrafts, etc, than there were customers. After 19 people had tried to sell us bananas, we were glad to walk passed the throng to the top of the falls. They are not all that high, but fairly wide, and cascade down through a variety of pools, with the water a bluey colour due to high concentration of minerals in it. All the rocks they flow over are a light browny colour, and together they look pretty special. I haven’t seen any others like them anywhere else in the world. There is some accommodation there, but we decided to keep going, and headed off towards Palenque. Travelling along the road, we came across a girl with a string pulled up around waist high across the road, trying to stop us for money. We weren’t stopping, as we had no idea who might have hiding in the bushes, so headed for her, and as soon she realised we weren’t stopping, she dropped the string, and we rode over it and kept going. A similar thing happened about 20 kms further along the road, this time manned by a group of people, but the same result, we just kept going, and they dropped the rope. Not far before Palenque, there was sign advertising Misol-Ha, some more waterfalls, it was only 1.5 kms off the road, so we head in to them. Just down the road we were stopped and asked for payment for entry, so we paid the fee, 20 pesos, about $1.20 aud. We rode on, and lo and behold, more people asking for an entry fee. They were told where they could stick the waterfall, we did a quick U turn, and were out of there. It isn’t the money, it’s the principle, if they get their shit together, and combine the fees, people wouldn’t mind paying, it isn’t expensive, but when it seems that everywhere you turn someone has their hand out, we dig our heels in and pay no one. I think the attempted road blocks with ropes just put us in the wrong frame of mind for this. Anyway, we rode into Palenque, and quickly found a hotel. Although we had only ridden about 250 kms, we were both tired, so bought a cooked chook for tea, and had an early night.
Lyn near the base of the falls
4
Rode to Tuxtla via Villahermosa, good weather, but hot riding. Mainly main roads, not a bad ride, but a bit boring in parts.
5
Decided we would ride to Salina Cruz and stay there for the night, as it was on the coast, along what should have been a straight forward ride down the 190 to Tapanetepec, then to Salina Cruz. It all went pear shaped not far out of Tuxtla, as we ended up going down through Arriaga, then back up along the 200. I still don’t know where we went wrong. As it wasn’t going to be a big day, we didn’t leave till 11.00 am, then went the long way round, and arrived at Salina Cruz only to find out it was a port town, all industrial, and not very appealing at all. The decision was made to head towards Puerto Angel and stop along the way, (it was 4.00 pm by this time, and it was another 170 kms to Puerto Angel), but we ended up riding the whole way, arriving at around 8.00 pm in the dark. We needed cash, so headed into Pochutla, only to find the internet was out, and the first 3 ATM’s we tried were offline. Fortunately, we managed to get money from another one, so could pay for our accommodation. Along the way there had been fires along the sides of the road, and going through one of these areas, a tree had burnt through and fallen towards the road, with some of its branches out over the top of the road. It was just around a blind corner, and Lyn came around and hit it, with just enough time to duck her head. It broke the peak straight off her helmet, lucky it didn’t take her head off her shoulders! There was no other damage, and she wasn’t hurt, so we continued on, as we were now racing the oncoming darkness. We headed for the hotel we had stayed at on our last visit in early January, and fortunately our old room was available. It was just like coming home, felt very comfortable!
6-9
Settled in for a few days off on the beach, we both like this place. While we were there, we met a couple from the Czech Republic, Roman and Radka, who very kindly donated their Mexican road map to us, as they thought ours looked like a page out of an atlas! I will admit it wasn’t the best map, but theirs is really good, thanks guys, we started using it straightaway.
Rode to Tuxtla via Villahermosa, good weather, but hot riding. Mainly main roads, not a bad ride, but a bit boring in parts.
5
Decided we would ride to Salina Cruz and stay there for the night, as it was on the coast, along what should have been a straight forward ride down the 190 to Tapanetepec, then to Salina Cruz. It all went pear shaped not far out of Tuxtla, as we ended up going down through Arriaga, then back up along the 200. I still don’t know where we went wrong. As it wasn’t going to be a big day, we didn’t leave till 11.00 am, then went the long way round, and arrived at Salina Cruz only to find out it was a port town, all industrial, and not very appealing at all. The decision was made to head towards Puerto Angel and stop along the way, (it was 4.00 pm by this time, and it was another 170 kms to Puerto Angel), but we ended up riding the whole way, arriving at around 8.00 pm in the dark. We needed cash, so headed into Pochutla, only to find the internet was out, and the first 3 ATM’s we tried were offline. Fortunately, we managed to get money from another one, so could pay for our accommodation. Along the way there had been fires along the sides of the road, and going through one of these areas, a tree had burnt through and fallen towards the road, with some of its branches out over the top of the road. It was just around a blind corner, and Lyn came around and hit it, with just enough time to duck her head. It broke the peak straight off her helmet, lucky it didn’t take her head off her shoulders! There was no other damage, and she wasn’t hurt, so we continued on, as we were now racing the oncoming darkness. We headed for the hotel we had stayed at on our last visit in early January, and fortunately our old room was available. It was just like coming home, felt very comfortable!
6-9
Settled in for a few days off on the beach, we both like this place. While we were there, we met a couple from the Czech Republic, Roman and Radka, who very kindly donated their Mexican road map to us, as they thought ours looked like a page out of an atlas! I will admit it wasn’t the best map, but theirs is really good, thanks guys, we started using it straightaway.
Sunset from our room, we never get tired of looking at the view here
With Roman and Radka just before we left
10
After a few days of R&R, it was time to keep moving, although we were tempted to put it off for a few more days. The decision was made to head back up to Oaxaca, and check out the petrified waterfalls nearby. We had already ridden the road down from Oaxaca to Puchutla, so we knew it was great ride, and normally don’t like riding the same road twice, but this one we could do again, and it didn’t disappoint. Lunch at a small restaurant with a million dollar view on the top of the mountains, (2,700 metres above sea level), and on to Oaxaca. We broke out the tent and set up at Overlanders Oasis for a couple of days.
After a few days of R&R, it was time to keep moving, although we were tempted to put it off for a few more days. The decision was made to head back up to Oaxaca, and check out the petrified waterfalls nearby. We had already ridden the road down from Oaxaca to Puchutla, so we knew it was great ride, and normally don’t like riding the same road twice, but this one we could do again, and it didn’t disappoint. Lunch at a small restaurant with a million dollar view on the top of the mountains, (2,700 metres above sea level), and on to Oaxaca. We broke out the tent and set up at Overlanders Oasis for a couple of days.
One of the spectacular views crossing the mountains from Puerto Angel to Oaxaca
11-13
I had to repair a small bracket on the bike, and Calvin, the owner of the park came to the rescue, he has a mig welder, and between us we had the job done in under an hour. Thanks mate, really appreciate your help! The ride out to the petrified waterfall (Hierve El Agua) was interesting, more amazing scenery along the way, looking out over valleys that seemed to go on forever. It was great to just veg for a couple of days. There was good wi fi at the Oasis, so I did get some more blog updated. Lyn went off for a day exploring, but I had seen enough convents, ruins, and churches, so stayed back and did some computer work. We did actually get the bikes washed while we were there as well, they badly needed doing, first time since they were cleaned in Vladivostok to be shipped to LA!
I had to repair a small bracket on the bike, and Calvin, the owner of the park came to the rescue, he has a mig welder, and between us we had the job done in under an hour. Thanks mate, really appreciate your help! The ride out to the petrified waterfall (Hierve El Agua) was interesting, more amazing scenery along the way, looking out over valleys that seemed to go on forever. It was great to just veg for a couple of days. There was good wi fi at the Oasis, so I did get some more blog updated. Lyn went off for a day exploring, but I had seen enough convents, ruins, and churches, so stayed back and did some computer work. We did actually get the bikes washed while we were there as well, they badly needed doing, first time since they were cleaned in Vladivostok to be shipped to LA!
The petrified waterfall, (Hierve el Agua), not far from Oaxaca
The multi coloured rocks stained by the minerals coming over the falls
Lyn's bike at the gate to the ex- convent of Cuilapam de Guerrero
Lyn at the ex convent, it never had a roof!
Lyn at Monte Alban, ruins with a view
14
A late start, as we were only going to be riding about 20 kms, into the city of Oaxaca to a hotel Lyn had booked online. It didn’t have bike parking, but we had organised with Brad, a HU member that Lyn had met in the city the day before, to leave the bikes at his place. Brian, another traveller, who had left his bike in Oaxaca a couple of months ago, was flying back in, so we organised to get together with them all for a beer and a feed, and it turned out to be a good night. Thanks guys, it was good to talk to you all.
15
After walking over to Brad’s to get the bikes, (thanks again for storing them for us mate), and taking a few photos, we rode back to the hotel, and while loading up met 3 more aussies touring the city, good to hear that familiar accent again. The weather was a lot nicer than yesterday, and we had a pretty nice ride up the 190 to Izucar de Matamoros, where we turned off on the 160 towards Taxco. We were hoping to meet up with Vickram, a guy we met in Vladivostock. It would have nice to make it there before dark, but it wasn’t going to happen, so we found a cheap room in a love hotel in Cuautla, just before a savage windstorm hit. Glad we weren’t riding in it, the gust’s would have blown you off the road. We contacted Vickram, and arranged to meet him for breakfast in Taxco, as he is heading out to Acapulco in the morning. This will be interesting, we have to get up early to make it in time, something we are not good at!
16-17
I was impressed with us, we were on the road by 7.00 am, would have to be a first for the whole trip! Quite cool riding at that time in the morning, we needed our windproof liners in our jackets for the trip. There are a couple of options along the way, a lot of it can be done on toll roads, much quicker as there are no intersections, topes, and towns to go through, so we did the first part on them, but then got off when we could and used the free road, certainly a lot slower! The traffic going through Cuernavaca was a nightmare, we hit it at peak hour, now I remember why we don’t get up early! Anyway, we met Vickram at Taxco, and had breakfast with him, good to catch up again. He headed off at midday, and we found a good room at a local hotel, changed into walking clothes, an wandered around town all afternoon, looking in the silver shops, but didn’t buy anything. Taxco is a very pretty city, built into the side of a mountain, the views are spectacular, but walking around it is difficult as it is really steep, had to stop for a lot of breathers on our way around. There was a couple of other things we wanted to see and do, so we ended up staying another night, and doing a trip up to the statue of Christ with his arms out over looking over the town, great views from up there. We caught the local bus up, 13 pesos for 2, about 80 cents. Saturday is market day in town, so we went shopping, the silver in town is really plentiful and cheap.
A late start, as we were only going to be riding about 20 kms, into the city of Oaxaca to a hotel Lyn had booked online. It didn’t have bike parking, but we had organised with Brad, a HU member that Lyn had met in the city the day before, to leave the bikes at his place. Brian, another traveller, who had left his bike in Oaxaca a couple of months ago, was flying back in, so we organised to get together with them all for a beer and a feed, and it turned out to be a good night. Thanks guys, it was good to talk to you all.
15
After walking over to Brad’s to get the bikes, (thanks again for storing them for us mate), and taking a few photos, we rode back to the hotel, and while loading up met 3 more aussies touring the city, good to hear that familiar accent again. The weather was a lot nicer than yesterday, and we had a pretty nice ride up the 190 to Izucar de Matamoros, where we turned off on the 160 towards Taxco. We were hoping to meet up with Vickram, a guy we met in Vladivostock. It would have nice to make it there before dark, but it wasn’t going to happen, so we found a cheap room in a love hotel in Cuautla, just before a savage windstorm hit. Glad we weren’t riding in it, the gust’s would have blown you off the road. We contacted Vickram, and arranged to meet him for breakfast in Taxco, as he is heading out to Acapulco in the morning. This will be interesting, we have to get up early to make it in time, something we are not good at!
16-17
I was impressed with us, we were on the road by 7.00 am, would have to be a first for the whole trip! Quite cool riding at that time in the morning, we needed our windproof liners in our jackets for the trip. There are a couple of options along the way, a lot of it can be done on toll roads, much quicker as there are no intersections, topes, and towns to go through, so we did the first part on them, but then got off when we could and used the free road, certainly a lot slower! The traffic going through Cuernavaca was a nightmare, we hit it at peak hour, now I remember why we don’t get up early! Anyway, we met Vickram at Taxco, and had breakfast with him, good to catch up again. He headed off at midday, and we found a good room at a local hotel, changed into walking clothes, an wandered around town all afternoon, looking in the silver shops, but didn’t buy anything. Taxco is a very pretty city, built into the side of a mountain, the views are spectacular, but walking around it is difficult as it is really steep, had to stop for a lot of breathers on our way around. There was a couple of other things we wanted to see and do, so we ended up staying another night, and doing a trip up to the statue of Christ with his arms out over looking over the town, great views from up there. We caught the local bus up, 13 pesos for 2, about 80 cents. Saturday is market day in town, so we went shopping, the silver in town is really plentiful and cheap.
The city of Taxco, built on a very steep hill
With Vickram after breakfast, great to catch up with him again
Statue of JC looking over the city
Those steps are steeper than they look, wouldn't pass OHS requirements in Oz!
Steep narrow road in the city
City view at night from our room
Church in the middle of the city
Looking down over the city from JC's statue, the church is in the middle of the picture
The statue from behind
18-19
After the markets, we took off for Pachuca, travelling on toll roads for a bit to save some time, and then going on to the back roads for a while. The last bit we had no choice, apart from going miles out of our way. The temperature dropped dramatically as we neared Pachuca, around 12 degrees, and would be 7 in the morning! We found a love hotel/motel on the edge of town, big rooms, hot water, ensuite, private bike parking, everything we needed, for about $28 AUD. The plan was to head out to the Prismas Basalticos, a waterfall and basalt rock towers, hexagonal, similar to the Giants Causeway in Ireland, then head for Tula, for some more sightseeing. We found the Prismas Basalticos OK, very impressive, well worth the visit. I even took a zipline ride over the canyon with the go pro to film the sights, cost all of about $3.50 AUD! While there we met two separate groups of bikers, one was like a patch club on Harleys, and the other on adventure bikes, both great lots of guys. Talking to the guys on the adventure bikes, it turns out they know both Marcos, who helped us out with the chain for Lyns bike, and Victor, from Tlalpan Yamaha, who helped us with the tyres in Mexico City. Daniel, from Pachuca, is charged with organising Rodando Rutas Magicas, a group of bikers who’s aim is to visit some or all of the 111 Magical Towns in Mexico, and promote tourism into those towns. The two guys with him, Luis, and Mauricio, both on BMW’s, were from Morelia, and visiting Pachuca, which is a Magic Town. After talking for a while, Daniel did a couple of video’s with us, and then took us to a nearby canyon, Pena del Aire, very impressive. It is a bit like the Grand Canyon, almost as big, but a bit greener. You can abseil down the face of it, and it has a zipline over a part of it, heart stopping stuff. It was getting late, and we decided to head back into town for some food, with us all deciding to stay another night in town, no point going anywhere at 5.00 pm! As we were planning to visit Atlantis near Tula tomorrow, the other guys decided to do the same, as it is on their way back home. Plans were made to catch up in the morning near our hotel, which was on the way out of town.
After the markets, we took off for Pachuca, travelling on toll roads for a bit to save some time, and then going on to the back roads for a while. The last bit we had no choice, apart from going miles out of our way. The temperature dropped dramatically as we neared Pachuca, around 12 degrees, and would be 7 in the morning! We found a love hotel/motel on the edge of town, big rooms, hot water, ensuite, private bike parking, everything we needed, for about $28 AUD. The plan was to head out to the Prismas Basalticos, a waterfall and basalt rock towers, hexagonal, similar to the Giants Causeway in Ireland, then head for Tula, for some more sightseeing. We found the Prismas Basalticos OK, very impressive, well worth the visit. I even took a zipline ride over the canyon with the go pro to film the sights, cost all of about $3.50 AUD! While there we met two separate groups of bikers, one was like a patch club on Harleys, and the other on adventure bikes, both great lots of guys. Talking to the guys on the adventure bikes, it turns out they know both Marcos, who helped us out with the chain for Lyns bike, and Victor, from Tlalpan Yamaha, who helped us with the tyres in Mexico City. Daniel, from Pachuca, is charged with organising Rodando Rutas Magicas, a group of bikers who’s aim is to visit some or all of the 111 Magical Towns in Mexico, and promote tourism into those towns. The two guys with him, Luis, and Mauricio, both on BMW’s, were from Morelia, and visiting Pachuca, which is a Magic Town. After talking for a while, Daniel did a couple of video’s with us, and then took us to a nearby canyon, Pena del Aire, very impressive. It is a bit like the Grand Canyon, almost as big, but a bit greener. You can abseil down the face of it, and it has a zipline over a part of it, heart stopping stuff. It was getting late, and we decided to head back into town for some food, with us all deciding to stay another night in town, no point going anywhere at 5.00 pm! As we were planning to visit Atlantis near Tula tomorrow, the other guys decided to do the same, as it is on their way back home. Plans were made to catch up in the morning near our hotel, which was on the way out of town.
Prismas Basalticos, (Prisms of Basalt), complete with swaying bridge over the gorge
At the canyon, (Pena del Aire), only a few kilometres from the Prismas Basaltico
With Daniel and his bike, another Yamaha 660, but the Tenere version
Mauricio, Daniel and Luis at the canyon
Us at the canyon, amazing how there is no safety rails or even a fence, and there is a sheer drop at the edge!
Zipline over a corner of the canyon
20-22
We met up with Luis and Mauricio as planned, and had a nice easy ride to the ruins at Tula, where the stone figures are, looking very similar to the ones on Easter Island. A walk through the small museum, and then back on the bikes, we would peel off and head north for San Miguel de Allende, while the other two would keep going down to Morelia. We had very kindly been offered a bed for a couple of nights by Mike Lewis, another biker now living in Mexico, with his wife Alex. We found the address without a problem, and Mike arrived home from work a few hours later, when we settled down with a beer and had a good chat until late in the evening. The next day was a rest day for us, although Lyn went and had an Xray on her collarbone, as she had been having a few problems with it lately, in the same place it had been broken back in 2009. Nothing really showed up, except for a slight build up of calcium in one spot. Looks like a spoonful of cement is the only answer……A great time and rest at Mike and Alex’s, thanks guys, really enjoyed our time with you.
We met up with Luis and Mauricio as planned, and had a nice easy ride to the ruins at Tula, where the stone figures are, looking very similar to the ones on Easter Island. A walk through the small museum, and then back on the bikes, we would peel off and head north for San Miguel de Allende, while the other two would keep going down to Morelia. We had very kindly been offered a bed for a couple of nights by Mike Lewis, another biker now living in Mexico, with his wife Alex. We found the address without a problem, and Mike arrived home from work a few hours later, when we settled down with a beer and had a good chat until late in the evening. The next day was a rest day for us, although Lyn went and had an Xray on her collarbone, as she had been having a few problems with it lately, in the same place it had been broken back in 2009. Nothing really showed up, except for a slight build up of calcium in one spot. Looks like a spoonful of cement is the only answer……A great time and rest at Mike and Alex’s, thanks guys, really enjoyed our time with you.
Lyn and I with Luis and Mauricio at the Tula ruins
Sharman at Tula
Some of the Tula ruins
At the stone figures
A Magic Town on the way to San Miguel de Allende
Near the square in San Miguel de Allende
One of the locals in the square
With Mike at his place
Statuey thingy on a roundabout on the road
23-27
A leisurely ride to Aguascaliente, avoiding toll roads, and the weather was good all the way. Cool in the morning, but the jacket liners were back on the bikes by lunchtime. We got lost trying to find Marco and Abbey’s place, but by sheer coincidence Marco, who was expecting us, was coming home, saw us beside the road, and indicated for us to follow him home. Marco was the guy who organised for the chain to be delivered to us at Lake Chapala. A really good time with these two, both bikers, who our friends had stayed with before going down to Lake Chapala, are they heavily into ironbutt rides, in fact Marco is the president of the Ironbutt Association in Mexico. We met a lot of their friends, and had a couple of drinks with them in the evenings. On Sunday Marco wanted to investigate a spot that could be used for camping, so we headed off for a look. It turned out to be dirt road epic, with some footage being shot, and a video made, looked good too! Marco also arranged an interview with us at a local TV station, haven’t seen the footage yet, but I’m sure it will be good. It will be aired with us speaking in english, and spanish subtitles. Looking forward to seeing it! A great week, really appreciate your hospitality guys, thanks again.
A leisurely ride to Aguascaliente, avoiding toll roads, and the weather was good all the way. Cool in the morning, but the jacket liners were back on the bikes by lunchtime. We got lost trying to find Marco and Abbey’s place, but by sheer coincidence Marco, who was expecting us, was coming home, saw us beside the road, and indicated for us to follow him home. Marco was the guy who organised for the chain to be delivered to us at Lake Chapala. A really good time with these two, both bikers, who our friends had stayed with before going down to Lake Chapala, are they heavily into ironbutt rides, in fact Marco is the president of the Ironbutt Association in Mexico. We met a lot of their friends, and had a couple of drinks with them in the evenings. On Sunday Marco wanted to investigate a spot that could be used for camping, so we headed off for a look. It turned out to be dirt road epic, with some footage being shot, and a video made, looked good too! Marco also arranged an interview with us at a local TV station, haven’t seen the footage yet, but I’m sure it will be good. It will be aired with us speaking in english, and spanish subtitles. Looking forward to seeing it! A great week, really appreciate your hospitality guys, thanks again.
Lunch with Lyn and Elly and some of the guys on the Sunday ride
See, I'm not the only one who gets lost, the guys checking google maps...........
Dinner with Elly and Marco
Saying farewell to our hosts after a great stay
28
Time to move on, so we took off to AJ’s, at Jocotepec, another guy we had been talking to on Facebook, from the Motorcycling Mexico site. Marco showed us the best route down to Jocotopec, road was a bit rough in places, but quite scenic. We went around the south side of Lake Chapala, not a bad ride. Arrived at around 5.00pm, and met AJ and his wife Sylvia, a lovely couple, who both ride, AJ a KLR650, and Sylvia a BMW G650GS. They took us out for tea to a local restaurant, good food. It really would be good to speak spanish properly, at least you would know what you are ordering! It’s nice when someone can order for you, and you get what you wanted…….
Time to move on, so we took off to AJ’s, at Jocotepec, another guy we had been talking to on Facebook, from the Motorcycling Mexico site. Marco showed us the best route down to Jocotopec, road was a bit rough in places, but quite scenic. We went around the south side of Lake Chapala, not a bad ride. Arrived at around 5.00pm, and met AJ and his wife Sylvia, a lovely couple, who both ride, AJ a KLR650, and Sylvia a BMW G650GS. They took us out for tea to a local restaurant, good food. It really would be good to speak spanish properly, at least you would know what you are ordering! It’s nice when someone can order for you, and you get what you wanted…….
With AJ at Jocotepec
29-2nd April
Sylvia had to work, so up early to say goodbye, and then AJ took us for breakfast, Birralia, very nice, like a beef stew. We met his friend Don on the way back from breakfast, then it was time to pack up and get going. AJ showed us a route to Puerta Vallata, a really nice ride, lots of twisties, where we were staying with Juergen and Eli, a couple of ex travellers who now have a motorcycle tour business, great people. The four of us sat up late talking over a drink or two, another good night. Juergen took two couples on a tour down to a small village on a deserted coastline south of Puerta Vallarta, and asked us if we wanted to tag along, so we gladly accepted the offer. It was a top days ride to places we would not have gone to, and the other two couples, Don and Gina from Oregon, and Pete and Zuzana from Slovakia turned out to be great people, so it made for a terrific day. A couple of days off then for us, but Juergen had to meet Laurel, a lady who was flying in from the US, and was going on a 3 day tour. When they left, Lyn and I stayed with Eli for another couple of nights, then it was time for us to get going again also. Juergen is pretty particular about his bikes, maintenance, and the safety of his customers, so I can recommend their tours, check them out online at www.bike-mexico.com. Thanks again for your hospitality guys!
Sylvia had to work, so up early to say goodbye, and then AJ took us for breakfast, Birralia, very nice, like a beef stew. We met his friend Don on the way back from breakfast, then it was time to pack up and get going. AJ showed us a route to Puerta Vallata, a really nice ride, lots of twisties, where we were staying with Juergen and Eli, a couple of ex travellers who now have a motorcycle tour business, great people. The four of us sat up late talking over a drink or two, another good night. Juergen took two couples on a tour down to a small village on a deserted coastline south of Puerta Vallarta, and asked us if we wanted to tag along, so we gladly accepted the offer. It was a top days ride to places we would not have gone to, and the other two couples, Don and Gina from Oregon, and Pete and Zuzana from Slovakia turned out to be great people, so it made for a terrific day. A couple of days off then for us, but Juergen had to meet Laurel, a lady who was flying in from the US, and was going on a 3 day tour. When they left, Lyn and I stayed with Eli for another couple of nights, then it was time for us to get going again also. Juergen is pretty particular about his bikes, maintenance, and the safety of his customers, so I can recommend their tours, check them out online at www.bike-mexico.com. Thanks again for your hospitality guys!
Spotted this in the harbour at Peurto Vallarta, some people have toooo much money........
Some fishing boats at a little village we visited on the trip with Juergen
Heading up the dirt road from the village
Look at that face, how could you not buy fresh cooked fish from this guy........
A group of happy riders at Bike-Mexico, Juergen in the blue shirt
On the deserted beach we visited on the ride, not a good place to surf!
At a national park on the coast just south of Puerto Vallarta, really pretty spot
There were a heap of these guys at the marina in PV, we spotted this one when we went for a walk. He would have been about 4 foot long.
With Juergen and Eli, and Laurel, another rider who was going on a tour, at a night out in downtown P.V.
3-8
Said goodbye to Eli and Remco, one of Juergen’s friends, who also helps out with the tours, and headed north along the 200 road to Tepic, some nice twisties along the way, and pretty good road. A bit cooler today, but still no rain, so good riding weather. From Tepic it was pretty boring riding up to Mazatlan, fairly flat open country, and in one section a decent crosswind to contend with, just to keep us awake. Lyn had found some timeshare on line, so we have a week in a resort in Mazatlan, all for under $200 AUD for the week. The apartment has a kitchen, so we can save some more money on food, don’t have to eat out. A visit to the supermarket got us some supplies for a few days, will top up as we go. The resort is right on the beach, so we walked down with a wine and watched the sunset, geez life is tough! The only down side is that wifi is extra, $10 USD per day, so that won’t happen! While we were there we met Ken and Michelle, a couple from Newfoundland, and also another guy travelling on his bike, (Vstrom 650), Dan Wilson, from New Mexico, so we ended up having a few drinks and meals with them while we were there. Ken is also a bike rider, (1200GS), so the talk was mainly bikes and travel, always interesting. While we were there, Lyn’s computer died, so it looks like we are up for a new one. Not sure what we have lost yet, hopefully not much!
Said goodbye to Eli and Remco, one of Juergen’s friends, who also helps out with the tours, and headed north along the 200 road to Tepic, some nice twisties along the way, and pretty good road. A bit cooler today, but still no rain, so good riding weather. From Tepic it was pretty boring riding up to Mazatlan, fairly flat open country, and in one section a decent crosswind to contend with, just to keep us awake. Lyn had found some timeshare on line, so we have a week in a resort in Mazatlan, all for under $200 AUD for the week. The apartment has a kitchen, so we can save some more money on food, don’t have to eat out. A visit to the supermarket got us some supplies for a few days, will top up as we go. The resort is right on the beach, so we walked down with a wine and watched the sunset, geez life is tough! The only down side is that wifi is extra, $10 USD per day, so that won’t happen! While we were there we met Ken and Michelle, a couple from Newfoundland, and also another guy travelling on his bike, (Vstrom 650), Dan Wilson, from New Mexico, so we ended up having a few drinks and meals with them while we were there. Ken is also a bike rider, (1200GS), so the talk was mainly bikes and travel, always interesting. While we were there, Lyn’s computer died, so it looks like we are up for a new one. Not sure what we have lost yet, hopefully not much!
The timeshare we stayed at, (Brown buildings with palms in front), on the beach.
Sunset over the beach
Dinner on the balcony of our room
With Michele, Ken, and Dan before we left.
9
Time to get moving again, so we said goodbye to Dan, and Ken and Michelle, and took off for Durango. The weather was great, the cloud that been building up for the last few days was gone, and it was warm on the coast, but as we turned off and climbed up into the mountains, it cooled right off. The road was sensational, even better than the road from Puerto Angel to Oaxaha, and that is stunning. It is called “The Devils Backbone”, (Route 666) and it is obvious why when you ride it. It climbs, drops, and has more bends than I have ever seen, you actually get tired of the bends, but the awesome views take your mind off it. We reached 2,750 metres above sea level at the highest point, and the weather just made the scenery even better. Hardly any potholes or topes, and as it was a sunday, not much traffic. There are 2 roads to Durango, the normal road that we took, and the toll road, which is about 50 kms shorter, and a lot quicker, but I don’t think you would get the scenery we got, well worth the extra time to take the long way. We lost an hour, as we crossed the line where the daylight saving cuts out, so it was after 5.00pm when we hit Durango. A ride through the old town, with a couple of stops for photos, before we found a hotel, at the right price, right next door to a steak and ribs restaurant, winner. We hadn’t eaten all day, so the worms were biting, but it didn’t take long to fill us all up. Good wifi, so managed to catch up with some of the stuff we couldn’t do at the resort.
Time to get moving again, so we said goodbye to Dan, and Ken and Michelle, and took off for Durango. The weather was great, the cloud that been building up for the last few days was gone, and it was warm on the coast, but as we turned off and climbed up into the mountains, it cooled right off. The road was sensational, even better than the road from Puerto Angel to Oaxaha, and that is stunning. It is called “The Devils Backbone”, (Route 666) and it is obvious why when you ride it. It climbs, drops, and has more bends than I have ever seen, you actually get tired of the bends, but the awesome views take your mind off it. We reached 2,750 metres above sea level at the highest point, and the weather just made the scenery even better. Hardly any potholes or topes, and as it was a sunday, not much traffic. There are 2 roads to Durango, the normal road that we took, and the toll road, which is about 50 kms shorter, and a lot quicker, but I don’t think you would get the scenery we got, well worth the extra time to take the long way. We lost an hour, as we crossed the line where the daylight saving cuts out, so it was after 5.00pm when we hit Durango. A ride through the old town, with a couple of stops for photos, before we found a hotel, at the right price, right next door to a steak and ribs restaurant, winner. We hadn’t eaten all day, so the worms were biting, but it didn’t take long to fill us all up. Good wifi, so managed to catch up with some of the stuff we couldn’t do at the resort.
A sample of the scenery on the road up to Durango
We crossed the Tropic of Cancer on the road up the hill
Devil's number on the road to Durango
One of the rest stops on the way up the mountain
10
From Durango to Parral today, just over 400 kms, so we left early, but as we neared Parral we rode over the time divide line again, so picked up the hour we lost yesterday. The weather was perfect again today, cool in the morning, but warmed up as the day wore on. Not a cloud in the sky until we were well over half way. The first hundred klms were really good road, almost straight, so we made good time, then a few small hills thrown in, just to stop you getting bored. From there back to straight road again, then more hills, then roadworks, then more good road. Due to the time pick-up, we arrived at Parral around 2.30, a good run. While the run was mainly straight, the country was still very scenic, changing a lot as we went along, from flat, to low hills, to a few small ranges with some twists in it, to desert, all very good riding. We checked into a hotel, secure bike parking in a carpark across the streetthen a wander round town to look at the sights, then a fairly early night, tomorrow will be a long day, not that far, but mainly small windy roads.
From Durango to Parral today, just over 400 kms, so we left early, but as we neared Parral we rode over the time divide line again, so picked up the hour we lost yesterday. The weather was perfect again today, cool in the morning, but warmed up as the day wore on. Not a cloud in the sky until we were well over half way. The first hundred klms were really good road, almost straight, so we made good time, then a few small hills thrown in, just to stop you getting bored. From there back to straight road again, then more hills, then roadworks, then more good road. Due to the time pick-up, we arrived at Parral around 2.30, a good run. While the run was mainly straight, the country was still very scenic, changing a lot as we went along, from flat, to low hills, to a few small ranges with some twists in it, to desert, all very good riding. We checked into a hotel, secure bike parking in a carpark across the streetthen a wander round town to look at the sights, then a fairly early night, tomorrow will be a long day, not that far, but mainly small windy roads.
11
Parral to Creel today, breakfast in the street at a small cafe near the hotel before we left, OJ and a gordita each, cost about $3.00 aud. Another great ride, more spectacular scenery, Mexico really excels. The weather was good, not too hot, but we were over 2,000 metres most of the way. Still all paved roads, and good ones, hardly any topes here, must be the area. Arrived at Creel, and did the hotel hunt, it is expensive here, end of the line for the canyon gawkers on the train trip up from Los Mochis, so we ended up at a little cabin outside town, cold at night, had a fireplace, and just as well, there was ice on the bike covers in the morning! We had been told there was a new bitumen road down to Los Mochis, but it turns out the new road is the road down to Batupilas, and you can’t get through from there, so no good. We had so many conflicting reports about the road, some people said you can’t go straight down to Los Mochis, so have to go north, almost to Chihuahua, then west, until you can head for the coast and come out about 100 or more klms north of Los Mochis, then come down the coast. It is a good 2 day trip, so that was a problem. We tracked down a guy that does tours, and his offsider knew someone that knows a road to Los Mochis, which includes 160 klms of rough dirt, part of it through a mine, so we thought OK, we can do that. Plan settled.
Parral to Creel today, breakfast in the street at a small cafe near the hotel before we left, OJ and a gordita each, cost about $3.00 aud. Another great ride, more spectacular scenery, Mexico really excels. The weather was good, not too hot, but we were over 2,000 metres most of the way. Still all paved roads, and good ones, hardly any topes here, must be the area. Arrived at Creel, and did the hotel hunt, it is expensive here, end of the line for the canyon gawkers on the train trip up from Los Mochis, so we ended up at a little cabin outside town, cold at night, had a fireplace, and just as well, there was ice on the bike covers in the morning! We had been told there was a new bitumen road down to Los Mochis, but it turns out the new road is the road down to Batupilas, and you can’t get through from there, so no good. We had so many conflicting reports about the road, some people said you can’t go straight down to Los Mochis, so have to go north, almost to Chihuahua, then west, until you can head for the coast and come out about 100 or more klms north of Los Mochis, then come down the coast. It is a good 2 day trip, so that was a problem. We tracked down a guy that does tours, and his offsider knew someone that knows a road to Los Mochis, which includes 160 klms of rough dirt, part of it through a mine, so we thought OK, we can do that. Plan settled.
Breakfast cafe in Parral
This cop pulled Lyn over just after she went the wrong way through a bridge underpass in Parral, we thought she would be booked. Turns out he could see we were lost, and just wanted to help us find our way out of town, even though he saw her go through the underpass. Wouldn't happen in Oz!
A view back along part of the road to Creel
More roadside scenery
Getting close to the canyon here
The cabins on the edge of town
Didn't think we would need one of these in Mexico, but we did here.
12
We had come to see the canyon, so off we went in the morning the 40 or so kilometres to the entrance, and it is impressive, 4 times larger than the Grand Canyon. There is a "Teleferico", or cable car across to a lookout near the middle of the canyon, so we took that over, a nice ride. At the same place there are 2 parallel zip lines, that would be an awesome ride! Watching 2 people take off together from the top, they disappeared from sight the distance is that far! After doing the tourist thing, we headed off along the road through a few small towns to Cerocahui, where the bitumen ends, and the fun really started. The road, which had been described as "a bit rough in some places was bloody rough almost all the way! It went up and down over four mountain ranges, and the climbs and descents seemed to go on forever. Going through the mine was the worst, on some parts where the trucks were working there was thick bull dust with rocks underneath you couldn't see, and that nearly bought us both undone a couple of times. Reaching a crest at one point there was a truck blocking the road while another truck turned in front of it, and another truck pulled in behind me blocking me in. Eventually one moved enough for me to get out, but they took their time. One one descent it was so steep that we were in 1st gear, on both brakes, and still sliding, unable to stop. Arse puckering stuff! Might be fun on an MX bike, but not on a fully loaded XT! Lyn went down on one descent, and a truck came along and just drove around her while I was trying to find somewhere I could park the bike to help her. I heard Lyn say 2 words I never thought I would ever hear her say, "I'm scared". The 160 kms took us 6 hours, and we reached the town of Choix where the sealed road started at 8.00pm that night, absolutely shattered. The first hotel we saw was home for the night, a six pack and a pizza eased the pain, and we crawled into bed and slept like babies.
We had come to see the canyon, so off we went in the morning the 40 or so kilometres to the entrance, and it is impressive, 4 times larger than the Grand Canyon. There is a "Teleferico", or cable car across to a lookout near the middle of the canyon, so we took that over, a nice ride. At the same place there are 2 parallel zip lines, that would be an awesome ride! Watching 2 people take off together from the top, they disappeared from sight the distance is that far! After doing the tourist thing, we headed off along the road through a few small towns to Cerocahui, where the bitumen ends, and the fun really started. The road, which had been described as "a bit rough in some places was bloody rough almost all the way! It went up and down over four mountain ranges, and the climbs and descents seemed to go on forever. Going through the mine was the worst, on some parts where the trucks were working there was thick bull dust with rocks underneath you couldn't see, and that nearly bought us both undone a couple of times. Reaching a crest at one point there was a truck blocking the road while another truck turned in front of it, and another truck pulled in behind me blocking me in. Eventually one moved enough for me to get out, but they took their time. One one descent it was so steep that we were in 1st gear, on both brakes, and still sliding, unable to stop. Arse puckering stuff! Might be fun on an MX bike, but not on a fully loaded XT! Lyn went down on one descent, and a truck came along and just drove around her while I was trying to find somewhere I could park the bike to help her. I heard Lyn say 2 words I never thought I would ever hear her say, "I'm scared". The 160 kms took us 6 hours, and we reached the town of Choix where the sealed road started at 8.00pm that night, absolutely shattered. The first hotel we saw was home for the night, a six pack and a pizza eased the pain, and we crawled into bed and slept like babies.
The bikes at the canyon
The Copper Canyon from one of the viewpoints, interestingly enough there are no safety rails........
The cable car, hard to see where the cable goes to.....
That's a sheer drop behind us
A well deserved rest stop. Not much traffic on this road, maybe that should have told us something.....
A river at the bottom of one of the ranges, really quite pretty
13
From Choix it was an easy 160 kms on sealed road to Los Mochis, then on to Topolobampo where the ferry leaves from, and we had all day and half the night to get there, as the ferry doesn't leave until just before midnight. We had the chance to wash the dust off the bikes at the hotel, and lube the chains, they really needed it. The computer charger had been playing up as well, so we found an Apple guy in Los Mochis that could supply an exchange charger, that was a win for us. While riding down the 4 lane highway to Los Mochis, we overtook a car with dad driving, and 4 kids in the front seat, and no one or nothing in the back seat. All the kids must have shotgunned the front seat....... We arrived at the terminal early, and changed into comfortable clothes for the 7 hour trip over to La Paz. Although we had booked over a week earlier, we were still too late to get a cabin, so Lyn bolted to one of the lounges while I strapped the bikes down, and staked a claim on a padded bench that we could lie down on for the night. There was a meal included in the price of the ticket, but by the time I got there, there was no food left. We both managed a few hours sleep, while others tossed and turned on the floor, or pushed 2 chairs together. Breakfast was a cup of coffee I had to pay for.......
From Choix it was an easy 160 kms on sealed road to Los Mochis, then on to Topolobampo where the ferry leaves from, and we had all day and half the night to get there, as the ferry doesn't leave until just before midnight. We had the chance to wash the dust off the bikes at the hotel, and lube the chains, they really needed it. The computer charger had been playing up as well, so we found an Apple guy in Los Mochis that could supply an exchange charger, that was a win for us. While riding down the 4 lane highway to Los Mochis, we overtook a car with dad driving, and 4 kids in the front seat, and no one or nothing in the back seat. All the kids must have shotgunned the front seat....... We arrived at the terminal early, and changed into comfortable clothes for the 7 hour trip over to La Paz. Although we had booked over a week earlier, we were still too late to get a cabin, so Lyn bolted to one of the lounges while I strapped the bikes down, and staked a claim on a padded bench that we could lie down on for the night. There was a meal included in the price of the ticket, but by the time I got there, there was no food left. We both managed a few hours sleep, while others tossed and turned on the floor, or pushed 2 chairs together. Breakfast was a cup of coffee I had to pay for.......
At the ferry before boarding, with Norberto, another biker, (the only other one on the ferry)
The bikes at the port in La Paz, with the ferry in the background
14
The ferry docked on schedule around 7.00am, but we had to wait over an hour to get off, the trailers and trucks get first preference. The ferry terminal is about 15 kms out of La Paz, so we rode into the city, and found a supermarket for something a bit more substantial to eat, and change back into our riding gear and boots. The timeshare we were booked into was at Cabo San Lucas, about 160 kms south, but check in time was after 2.00pm, so we had plenty of time to get there. A leisurely ride down, a quick look around town, and we were welcomed into our home for the next week.
The ferry docked on schedule around 7.00am, but we had to wait over an hour to get off, the trailers and trucks get first preference. The ferry terminal is about 15 kms out of La Paz, so we rode into the city, and found a supermarket for something a bit more substantial to eat, and change back into our riding gear and boots. The timeshare we were booked into was at Cabo San Lucas, about 160 kms south, but check in time was after 2.00pm, so we had plenty of time to get there. A leisurely ride down, a quick look around town, and we were welcomed into our home for the next week.
The view from our unit over Cabo San Lucas
15-21
A nice relaxing week, staying up late and getting up late, meeting some of the other guests here and having a drink with them, really a good relaxing time, just what we needed. One day we took a boat ride out to see the arch, at the most southern point on the Baja peninsula, and a few of the other sights, including the sea lions that hang around the marina and the area out towards the tip of the cape. Well worth it. The plan was also to do a fishing trip, but we needed another 2 people to make it a reasonable price for the boat hire, and we couldn’t get them, so that didn’t happen. We took a ride up towards Todos Santos, to have a surf at Cerritos, but as we got further north along the coast, there was a really unusual cloud / fog forming. While it was hot when we left Cabo, we crossed an invisible line, and it really became cool, almost cold riding north. The cold air coming in from the sea was hitting the hot air from the desert, and creating a thick fog, or cloud bank, that made the beach very unappealing. We sat on the beach and looked at what we could see of the surf, which wasn’t much, and gave it up as a lost cause. Inland a few hundred metres, the weather was clear and fine, very strange. As we were so close, we rode up to Todos Santos and took the tourist photo outside the original Hotel California, of The Eagles song fame, before getting told to move the bikes off the footpath outside the hotel. While there we met some other people that came up to talk to us about the bikes and our trip, really friendly people, even offered us a place to stay if we ever get up to where they live in the USA. You never know, we may just take them up on the offer! A quick ride back to Cabo, where we crossed the invisible hot/cold line again, and sweated all the way back to our room. The other guests we got to know were Greg and Karen and their daughter and her boyfriend from California, (crazy Anaheim Ducks ice hockey supporters), and Mike and Pam, Canadians from Alberta. One night we went out for a meal with Mike and Pam to a pub with live entertainment, the guy there thought he was a bit like Elton John, had some unusual facial expressions….. but a good night all the same. Andrea, who manages the appartments we were staying in, recommended the place, and it was good value. Cabo is an expensive, touristy city, and it’s hard to find a place that is not expensive, very different to mainland Mexico. Mauritz, a german guy we met in Antigua, Guatemala, had just crossed on the ferry from Mazatlan, so he came down and stayed with us for a night, great to catch up with him again. We had a good night talking and laughing, thanks for the clamato, Mauritz! Friday came, and it was time for us to go, so we packed up, got dressed, and loaded the bikes up, when Mike spotted a break in the frame in Lyn’s bike, so that threw a spanner in the works. I unpacked it, and found a local guy that does a lot of welding on buggy chassis’s, and helped me out at a very reasonable price. Did a top job, very happy, but by the time it was finished, it was too late to head for La Paz, so Andrea helped us out with another night at the apartments we were staying at, thanks Andrea, really appreciate it! We’ll try again tomorrow.
A nice relaxing week, staying up late and getting up late, meeting some of the other guests here and having a drink with them, really a good relaxing time, just what we needed. One day we took a boat ride out to see the arch, at the most southern point on the Baja peninsula, and a few of the other sights, including the sea lions that hang around the marina and the area out towards the tip of the cape. Well worth it. The plan was also to do a fishing trip, but we needed another 2 people to make it a reasonable price for the boat hire, and we couldn’t get them, so that didn’t happen. We took a ride up towards Todos Santos, to have a surf at Cerritos, but as we got further north along the coast, there was a really unusual cloud / fog forming. While it was hot when we left Cabo, we crossed an invisible line, and it really became cool, almost cold riding north. The cold air coming in from the sea was hitting the hot air from the desert, and creating a thick fog, or cloud bank, that made the beach very unappealing. We sat on the beach and looked at what we could see of the surf, which wasn’t much, and gave it up as a lost cause. Inland a few hundred metres, the weather was clear and fine, very strange. As we were so close, we rode up to Todos Santos and took the tourist photo outside the original Hotel California, of The Eagles song fame, before getting told to move the bikes off the footpath outside the hotel. While there we met some other people that came up to talk to us about the bikes and our trip, really friendly people, even offered us a place to stay if we ever get up to where they live in the USA. You never know, we may just take them up on the offer! A quick ride back to Cabo, where we crossed the invisible hot/cold line again, and sweated all the way back to our room. The other guests we got to know were Greg and Karen and their daughter and her boyfriend from California, (crazy Anaheim Ducks ice hockey supporters), and Mike and Pam, Canadians from Alberta. One night we went out for a meal with Mike and Pam to a pub with live entertainment, the guy there thought he was a bit like Elton John, had some unusual facial expressions….. but a good night all the same. Andrea, who manages the appartments we were staying in, recommended the place, and it was good value. Cabo is an expensive, touristy city, and it’s hard to find a place that is not expensive, very different to mainland Mexico. Mauritz, a german guy we met in Antigua, Guatemala, had just crossed on the ferry from Mazatlan, so he came down and stayed with us for a night, great to catch up with him again. We had a good night talking and laughing, thanks for the clamato, Mauritz! Friday came, and it was time for us to go, so we packed up, got dressed, and loaded the bikes up, when Mike spotted a break in the frame in Lyn’s bike, so that threw a spanner in the works. I unpacked it, and found a local guy that does a lot of welding on buggy chassis’s, and helped me out at a very reasonable price. Did a top job, very happy, but by the time it was finished, it was too late to head for La Paz, so Andrea helped us out with another night at the apartments we were staying at, thanks Andrea, really appreciate it! We’ll try again tomorrow.
Us on the boat at the Arch, at the end of the Baja Peninsula, Cabo
With Mauritz at our unit
A night out in Cabo, at a local bar frequented by most of the bikers in town.
Some of the seals that live near the harbour at Cabo. There are a couple that follow the fishing boats in looking for leftovers from the fish cleaning, they get right up next to the transom.
Such a lovely place........
The weird cloud/fog bank over the shoreline, over the land it was clear, fine, and warm, on the shore and over the water it was thick fog, cold, and damp.
22
A nice leisurely start to the day, and a ride to look at one of the surf beaches on our way along Highway 1 back up to La Paz. It was hot riding, so wet t shirts under the jackets to cool off. La Paz is fairly expensive, but we managed to find a good hotel at the right price right on the waterfront overlooking the bay, with space to park the bikes underneath. A walk along the malecon found us a guide with a boat who could take us to do a dive with the whale sharks the next day, at half the price we were originally quoted, so we confirmed that, for 9.00am in the morning. Met up with Mike and Pam (who stayed in the same timeshare as us in Cabo San Lucas) for dinner, another good night.
A nice leisurely start to the day, and a ride to look at one of the surf beaches on our way along Highway 1 back up to La Paz. It was hot riding, so wet t shirts under the jackets to cool off. La Paz is fairly expensive, but we managed to find a good hotel at the right price right on the waterfront overlooking the bay, with space to park the bikes underneath. A walk along the malecon found us a guide with a boat who could take us to do a dive with the whale sharks the next day, at half the price we were originally quoted, so we confirmed that, for 9.00am in the morning. Met up with Mike and Pam (who stayed in the same timeshare as us in Cabo San Lucas) for dinner, another good night.
At the La Paz sign
Lyn at a giant pearl, on the waterfront at La Paz
These girls were doing a dance exhibition nearby, and were curious about the bikes
23-24
Up early and pack the bikes, so we don’t have to stay another night in the hotel after we come back from the dive, and then meet the skipper at the boat. We were actually early, so had time to grab a taco before we headed out. We had never swam with whale sharks before, and were surprised how murky the water was, but then realised that is what they eat, the murk is actually the plankton they feed on, there is no food for them in clear water. Three other boats joined us in the hunt for the shark, the skippers working together to find one, then taking it in turns to drop the swimmers in front of the shark so they got a short swim with it. These sharks are fast, just gliding effortlessly through the water, and us mere humans have to swim like hell to try to keep up with it, we had no hope, but did manage to get some go pro footage, hope it turns out OK. From there back to shore, pick up the bikes, and head for Loreto, about 350 kms north. It is all good road, and the weather was still warm and clear, so we managed to get in just after 5.00pm. Most of the ride is pretty boring, with some really long straight stretches, but the last 30 kms or so is really pretty, along the coastline, with awesome views out over the clear blue sea. We managed to find a hotel for the night, then met up with Peter Boddy for a drink and dinner. Peter is a South African who lived in the US for a while, but is now permanently living in Loreto. The next day we wandered around and had a look about, quite a nice town, and one of the 111 magical towns in Mexico.
Up early and pack the bikes, so we don’t have to stay another night in the hotel after we come back from the dive, and then meet the skipper at the boat. We were actually early, so had time to grab a taco before we headed out. We had never swam with whale sharks before, and were surprised how murky the water was, but then realised that is what they eat, the murk is actually the plankton they feed on, there is no food for them in clear water. Three other boats joined us in the hunt for the shark, the skippers working together to find one, then taking it in turns to drop the swimmers in front of the shark so they got a short swim with it. These sharks are fast, just gliding effortlessly through the water, and us mere humans have to swim like hell to try to keep up with it, we had no hope, but did manage to get some go pro footage, hope it turns out OK. From there back to shore, pick up the bikes, and head for Loreto, about 350 kms north. It is all good road, and the weather was still warm and clear, so we managed to get in just after 5.00pm. Most of the ride is pretty boring, with some really long straight stretches, but the last 30 kms or so is really pretty, along the coastline, with awesome views out over the clear blue sea. We managed to find a hotel for the night, then met up with Peter Boddy for a drink and dinner. Peter is a South African who lived in the US for a while, but is now permanently living in Loreto. The next day we wandered around and had a look about, quite a nice town, and one of the 111 magical towns in Mexico.
https://youtu.be/RCayDWPvw28 Click here for a video of our dive
On the road north from La Paz
Near the centre of town, Loreto
Loreto beach as the fish see it
25
Another warm, clear day, and time to go again, with Peter joining us for the ride up to Mulege, where we had planned to stop and camp for the night at one of the camping areas right on the water. The road goes inland from just north of Loreto, so not a lot to see until we hit the cost again at Bahia Concepcion, (Bay of Conception). We had a look at two spots, and had a great fish taco lunch with Peter before he headed back to Loreto, then set up camp at a palapa at El Coyote, a camping area about 20 kms south of Mulege. They charged us 200 pesos for the palapa, I think we were ripped off. We met two more couples travelling in RV’s, both from Oregon, and spoke to them for a while, before they headed off to bed, so we lit a fire and talked for a few more hours before going to sleep ourselves.
Another warm, clear day, and time to go again, with Peter joining us for the ride up to Mulege, where we had planned to stop and camp for the night at one of the camping areas right on the water. The road goes inland from just north of Loreto, so not a lot to see until we hit the cost again at Bahia Concepcion, (Bay of Conception). We had a look at two spots, and had a great fish taco lunch with Peter before he headed back to Loreto, then set up camp at a palapa at El Coyote, a camping area about 20 kms south of Mulege. They charged us 200 pesos for the palapa, I think we were ripped off. We met two more couples travelling in RV’s, both from Oregon, and spoke to them for a while, before they headed off to bed, so we lit a fire and talked for a few more hours before going to sleep ourselves.
With Peter on the road to Mulege
A nice bit of bike road
Our camp at El Coyote
Off to the nearest shop for some supplies
The shoreline in front of our tent
26
The big decision was to either stay another day, or get going, but we decided to hit the road again, and headed up and across the peninsula to Guerrero Negro, a fairly big town on the west coast. We had been playing tag with some other Mexican bikers on the trip across, and ended up staying at the same hotel as them for the night. Most of them were on Harleys, heading up to Ensinada, but one guy was on a Ducati Multistrada heading for Alaska. Good luck Pedro, have a great trip! The weather had been fine and warm nearly all the way, but the last half hour we crossed an invisible line, and it turned really cold, with a band of cloud along the coast. Apparently it is fairly normal for that area, and we weren’t prepared for it, so suffered for the last section.
The big decision was to either stay another day, or get going, but we decided to hit the road again, and headed up and across the peninsula to Guerrero Negro, a fairly big town on the west coast. We had been playing tag with some other Mexican bikers on the trip across, and ended up staying at the same hotel as them for the night. Most of them were on Harleys, heading up to Ensinada, but one guy was on a Ducati Multistrada heading for Alaska. Good luck Pedro, have a great trip! The weather had been fine and warm nearly all the way, but the last half hour we crossed an invisible line, and it turned really cold, with a band of cloud along the coast. Apparently it is fairly normal for that area, and we weren’t prepared for it, so suffered for the last section.
Another campsite near El Coyote, we passed it when we left
The bay at Mulege, you would have to own a boat if you lived here!
27-28
Dressed a bit warmer today for the stretch up to El Rosario. Still cloudy and cold when we got up, but no rain. We had been trying to decide which coast to go up, but in the end decided on the west, or Pacific, coast, still not sure if it was the best idea, but we can only do one this trip. The stretch from Villa Jesus Maria to El Rosario has no fuel stops along it, and is about 370 kilometres, so we needed to fill up the fuel bladder to make it through. This was the first time since we left on this trip that we had used it for it’s intended purpose, the only other time it had fuel in it was also in Mexico, when the shortage was on just before Xmas, but we didn’t need it then. There are a couple of small towns where they sell petrol in tins beside the road, but the quality is dubious, and you can’t see what you are buying, so decided to avoid them. Riding along here, not long after overtaking two semi trailers, the small camera we have, (nicknamed “Pinky”, because it is in a pinky coloured case), bounced out of where it sits on Lyn’s bike, and bounced down the road. I was behind Lyn, and saw it fall, but couldn’t stop in time to pick it up, so did a U turn and went back to grab it off the road before the trucks came and ran over it. I just managed to pick it up and then ride off the road before they got there. About 50 or 60 kms north of Villa Jesus Maria the cloud disappeared as we went further inland, and it warmed up a bit, but as we neared the coast again at the other end the temperature dropped, and we were freezing when we pulled into El Rosario for fuel. Not sure how high we were when we went over the range after that, but it was cold and cloudy all the way to Santa Maria, right on the coast, where we found a hotel for a couple of nights. It had a restaurant, and was reasonably priced, so we had tea there, and met Brent and Laurie, a couple of Canadians while we were there. They are travelling in an RV, which we had a look at, very nice. The following day we caught up again for dinner and drinks, had a great (and late) night.
Dressed a bit warmer today for the stretch up to El Rosario. Still cloudy and cold when we got up, but no rain. We had been trying to decide which coast to go up, but in the end decided on the west, or Pacific, coast, still not sure if it was the best idea, but we can only do one this trip. The stretch from Villa Jesus Maria to El Rosario has no fuel stops along it, and is about 370 kilometres, so we needed to fill up the fuel bladder to make it through. This was the first time since we left on this trip that we had used it for it’s intended purpose, the only other time it had fuel in it was also in Mexico, when the shortage was on just before Xmas, but we didn’t need it then. There are a couple of small towns where they sell petrol in tins beside the road, but the quality is dubious, and you can’t see what you are buying, so decided to avoid them. Riding along here, not long after overtaking two semi trailers, the small camera we have, (nicknamed “Pinky”, because it is in a pinky coloured case), bounced out of where it sits on Lyn’s bike, and bounced down the road. I was behind Lyn, and saw it fall, but couldn’t stop in time to pick it up, so did a U turn and went back to grab it off the road before the trucks came and ran over it. I just managed to pick it up and then ride off the road before they got there. About 50 or 60 kms north of Villa Jesus Maria the cloud disappeared as we went further inland, and it warmed up a bit, but as we neared the coast again at the other end the temperature dropped, and we were freezing when we pulled into El Rosario for fuel. Not sure how high we were when we went over the range after that, but it was cold and cloudy all the way to Santa Maria, right on the coast, where we found a hotel for a couple of nights. It had a restaurant, and was reasonably priced, so we had tea there, and met Brent and Laurie, a couple of Canadians while we were there. They are travelling in an RV, which we had a look at, very nice. The following day we caught up again for dinner and drinks, had a great (and late) night.
The bikes beside the road, note the fuel bladder tied on the top of my bike
The road stretching across the desert
This pile of rocks was unusual, all the others were more like a normal hill with some soil and vegetation on them.
Plenty of cactus around
We went off the main road to a small town for an ice cream along the way, this was in the town centre
The bikes outside our room in Santa Maria
Our room was about 400 metres from this beach, nice, but cool and very windy.
With Brent and Laurie before we left
29
Back on the road again, heading north to Ensenada. The cloud burnt off by late morning, still cool, but not as cold as it has been. The sky was clear by lunch time, and it was warm when we got to Ensenada. About 20 kms before Ensenada is a turn off to La Bufadora, out on a peninsula overlooking the city across a wide bay. We grabbed a cooked chook for lunch, and took the turn off to have a look at it. It was windy, but we found a sheltered spot and had our lunch, looking down over the other tourists walking through the vendors selling their trinkets along the tourist strip. It was a long weekend, but we didn’t know about it, so had to do a lot of hunting to get a hotel for the night. The prices are almost double over holidays like this, and it really is difficult to find one not booked out. During our search we came across a fellow biker who had recently moved to the city, and who owned a bar near the beach, and he invited us back for a drink. As it turned out the hotel we found wasn’t far away, so we took him up on his offer. An is really good guy, and we met his fiancee as well. They both grew up in Texas, so speak excellent english. If anyone is looking for a beer around this area, check them out, it will be worth it. The bar is called “El Papagayo”, and is just back from the beach on Guaymas.
Back on the road again, heading north to Ensenada. The cloud burnt off by late morning, still cool, but not as cold as it has been. The sky was clear by lunch time, and it was warm when we got to Ensenada. About 20 kms before Ensenada is a turn off to La Bufadora, out on a peninsula overlooking the city across a wide bay. We grabbed a cooked chook for lunch, and took the turn off to have a look at it. It was windy, but we found a sheltered spot and had our lunch, looking down over the other tourists walking through the vendors selling their trinkets along the tourist strip. It was a long weekend, but we didn’t know about it, so had to do a lot of hunting to get a hotel for the night. The prices are almost double over holidays like this, and it really is difficult to find one not booked out. During our search we came across a fellow biker who had recently moved to the city, and who owned a bar near the beach, and he invited us back for a drink. As it turned out the hotel we found wasn’t far away, so we took him up on his offer. An is really good guy, and we met his fiancee as well. They both grew up in Texas, so speak excellent english. If anyone is looking for a beer around this area, check them out, it will be worth it. The bar is called “El Papagayo”, and is just back from the beach on Guaymas.
La Bufidora, very pretty, but very touristy, we just looked down on it from the hilltop
The bikes at the hilltop
Looking across the bay to Ensenada
Fish farms in the bay
On the way back to the main road. We wanted to stop at another headland nearby, but the guy wanted to charge us $10 entrance to go and take our own photo, so that didn't happen!
Lyn with An and his fiancee outside his bar in Ensenada, good people
30-1st May
A nice warm clear day, and Fonzie arrived right on time. Fonzie is from Tijuana, and has been talking to us on line, and arranged to meet us here and show us around the area. We had planned to ride up Highway 3 through the wine country to Tecate, so headed up that way, with a stop at a winery just outside Valle de Guadalupe, for a coffee, (Yes, a coffee), and a snack. Fonzie said that a few kms further the wine country stopped, and it became just a ride along the road, so suggested we head back and go up the coast road to Tijuana. We agreed, and when we got out to the bikes, I realised I had left the key switched on, and the battery was flat. Bugger! After trying to push start it on the dirt road and failing miserably, I pushed it out to the bitumen where we tried again, success! After going back to Ensenada for lunch, we took the coast road, and it is a good ride. The road hugs the coast almost all the way, and with the clear weather, there was some spectacular views out over the sea. Not bad surf either, but the shore is rocky a lot of the way. At a toll gate, there were a couple of sports bike riders, a guy and a girl. After we got through the toll gate, the girl jumped up on the seat of her bike, and pulled a massive wheelie for a few kilometres, before they turned off. Great job, never looked like having a problem, must have done it before I think! We stopped at the end of the day right up against the border fence with the US and had a drink while watching the sunset, a top way to end the day. From there back to Fonzie’s for the night, and a leisurely day after, taking in a seafood lunch overlooking the water. From the deck at the restaurant we spotted a few groups of whales on their way north, a bit late in the season, these must be the stragglers. They were fairly close in to the shore, so we got a pretty good look at them.
A nice warm clear day, and Fonzie arrived right on time. Fonzie is from Tijuana, and has been talking to us on line, and arranged to meet us here and show us around the area. We had planned to ride up Highway 3 through the wine country to Tecate, so headed up that way, with a stop at a winery just outside Valle de Guadalupe, for a coffee, (Yes, a coffee), and a snack. Fonzie said that a few kms further the wine country stopped, and it became just a ride along the road, so suggested we head back and go up the coast road to Tijuana. We agreed, and when we got out to the bikes, I realised I had left the key switched on, and the battery was flat. Bugger! After trying to push start it on the dirt road and failing miserably, I pushed it out to the bitumen where we tried again, success! After going back to Ensenada for lunch, we took the coast road, and it is a good ride. The road hugs the coast almost all the way, and with the clear weather, there was some spectacular views out over the sea. Not bad surf either, but the shore is rocky a lot of the way. At a toll gate, there were a couple of sports bike riders, a guy and a girl. After we got through the toll gate, the girl jumped up on the seat of her bike, and pulled a massive wheelie for a few kilometres, before they turned off. Great job, never looked like having a problem, must have done it before I think! We stopped at the end of the day right up against the border fence with the US and had a drink while watching the sunset, a top way to end the day. From there back to Fonzie’s for the night, and a leisurely day after, taking in a seafood lunch overlooking the water. From the deck at the restaurant we spotted a few groups of whales on their way north, a bit late in the season, these must be the stragglers. They were fairly close in to the shore, so we got a pretty good look at them.
The US / Mexico border at Tijuana. There are cameras on the wall, and a guard in a 4x4 on the beach on the US side. Beach on the US side was deserted, while there were lots of people on the Mexican side.
The bikes at Tijuana beach
Time for a quiet one at Tijuana
With Fonzie at the restaurant
A whale cruising past, this shot was taken a couple of minutes after the previous one.
With Fonzie at his place in Tijuana
2
Today we were leaving Mexico, and Fonzie was going to lead us to Mexicali, where we crossed the border back into the USA. He picked up his girlfriend in his car, and we followed him through the La Rumorosa area, between Tecate and Mexicali, really scenic, but very barren, large areas of nothing but rocks, with a great divided road winding through the hills heading east. Really good riding. We left Fonzie along the way, and headed for the border crossing at Mexicali, not realising there was 2 seperate crossings there. Of course we went to the wrong one first, and were unable to get our vehicle bond back there, (which we found out after queuing up for about 20 minutes) so had to ride another 3 kms to the next crossing where we could get an inspection done, and apply for our money back. It was $400 US per bike, which we paid when we entered Mexico at Brownsville back in December, so a substantial amount. The crossing took about 2 hours, 95% of that time getting out of Mexico, getting into the US was about 5 minutes, and just a matter of showing our passports, wasn't interested in the bikes at all. Time was getting on, so we blasted along the I8 to Yuma, where we booked into a hotel for the night.
Today we were leaving Mexico, and Fonzie was going to lead us to Mexicali, where we crossed the border back into the USA. He picked up his girlfriend in his car, and we followed him through the La Rumorosa area, between Tecate and Mexicali, really scenic, but very barren, large areas of nothing but rocks, with a great divided road winding through the hills heading east. Really good riding. We left Fonzie along the way, and headed for the border crossing at Mexicali, not realising there was 2 seperate crossings there. Of course we went to the wrong one first, and were unable to get our vehicle bond back there, (which we found out after queuing up for about 20 minutes) so had to ride another 3 kms to the next crossing where we could get an inspection done, and apply for our money back. It was $400 US per bike, which we paid when we entered Mexico at Brownsville back in December, so a substantial amount. The crossing took about 2 hours, 95% of that time getting out of Mexico, getting into the US was about 5 minutes, and just a matter of showing our passports, wasn't interested in the bikes at all. Time was getting on, so we blasted along the I8 to Yuma, where we booked into a hotel for the night.
A truck coming through the La Rumorosa range
Us at one of the lookouts, note the wind farm in the background
View from the lookout
The two roads meet up at the bottom, one is the eastbound lanes, the other the westbound.
Fonzie and the bikes
Our trip through Mexico, plus a little bit more in the top left hand corner, up to Tijuana and then across to Mexicali.
Mexico, what a fantastic country! It has everything, friendly people, great scenery, beaches, mountains, and natural wonders, and it's also reasonably inexpensive, particularly mainland Mexico. It would be one of the best places we have visited on our trip, would we go back there, YES! A lot of people have concerns about their safety there, but it is like anywhere, you can be in the wrong place at the wrong time. If you use some common sense, talk to the locals, and don't do anything stupid, you will be fine. We both enjoyed it immensely.
