Big sign, just over the border into Russia
23rd July
Left the room this morning looking for somewhere to get a cuppa and some breakfast, and found a great cafe on the way out of town. Fuelled up next, and fairly good road all the way to the border, about 110 kms. The crossing went well, overall about 45 minutes to clear Kazakhstan, and enter Russia, faster than we expected. From there just a 30 km ride to Rubtsovsk, where we planned to stay for the night. Lyn had booked us into a hostel, but when we arrived the room we had booked was not available, and they had nothing else, so we found another hotel about 1 km away, an extra couple of dollars, but well worth it. When we pulled up there was a wedding reception going on, and before long all the young blokes, (and a couple of the girls) were around the bikes, asking questions, and we were talking as best we could through the language barrier, and all having a laugh. From there the bride came out looking stunning in her wedding dress, and invited us into the party. I had asked one of the guys if he knew anyone who could help fix the broken subframe again, and he made a couple of phone calls, then said could I start stripping the bike down, the welder would be here in half an hour! Today was saturday afternoon, I didn’t expect anyone till monday. He turned up, looked at the job, decided what had been done before was rubbish, and set to fixing it with two big lengths of threaded bar as a sleeve inside the broken subframe, and then welded that up. That should do the trick I hope. He also welded up the broken tag on my bike’s pannier rack, that had broken when I took the tumble a couple of days ago. When he had finished I went to pay him, but he wouldn’t take any money for it, so I gave him my bottle of liqueur, which he accepted. Thanks mate, a great job. While I had been working on the bikes, Lyn had been inside at the reception, and during breaks in the speeches and games had bought me out a meal. The guys from the wedding party had also been bringing me out vodka, juice, and snacks, so I was doing quite nicely. Really great people, and although there was the language barrier, we all got on well. The top box base had broken out around the mounting bolt holes, so that needed repairing as well, but I couldn’t ask the welder any more favours, so will sort that out tomorrow if possible, though it is sunday, so nothing may happen till the next day. I finally finished outside, and went in for a shower and got changed, then went downstairs to join the party, just as everyone was leaving, bugger, just missed it! Had a couple of drinks and some fruit, then got booted out as the clean-up crew moved in, so went back up to our room for a rest.
Left the room this morning looking for somewhere to get a cuppa and some breakfast, and found a great cafe on the way out of town. Fuelled up next, and fairly good road all the way to the border, about 110 kms. The crossing went well, overall about 45 minutes to clear Kazakhstan, and enter Russia, faster than we expected. From there just a 30 km ride to Rubtsovsk, where we planned to stay for the night. Lyn had booked us into a hostel, but when we arrived the room we had booked was not available, and they had nothing else, so we found another hotel about 1 km away, an extra couple of dollars, but well worth it. When we pulled up there was a wedding reception going on, and before long all the young blokes, (and a couple of the girls) were around the bikes, asking questions, and we were talking as best we could through the language barrier, and all having a laugh. From there the bride came out looking stunning in her wedding dress, and invited us into the party. I had asked one of the guys if he knew anyone who could help fix the broken subframe again, and he made a couple of phone calls, then said could I start stripping the bike down, the welder would be here in half an hour! Today was saturday afternoon, I didn’t expect anyone till monday. He turned up, looked at the job, decided what had been done before was rubbish, and set to fixing it with two big lengths of threaded bar as a sleeve inside the broken subframe, and then welded that up. That should do the trick I hope. He also welded up the broken tag on my bike’s pannier rack, that had broken when I took the tumble a couple of days ago. When he had finished I went to pay him, but he wouldn’t take any money for it, so I gave him my bottle of liqueur, which he accepted. Thanks mate, a great job. While I had been working on the bikes, Lyn had been inside at the reception, and during breaks in the speeches and games had bought me out a meal. The guys from the wedding party had also been bringing me out vodka, juice, and snacks, so I was doing quite nicely. Really great people, and although there was the language barrier, we all got on well. The top box base had broken out around the mounting bolt holes, so that needed repairing as well, but I couldn’t ask the welder any more favours, so will sort that out tomorrow if possible, though it is sunday, so nothing may happen till the next day. I finally finished outside, and went in for a shower and got changed, then went downstairs to join the party, just as everyone was leaving, bugger, just missed it! Had a couple of drinks and some fruit, then got booted out as the clean-up crew moved in, so went back up to our room for a rest.
Lyn with the groom and friends
The bride during one of the many wedding games
24
Started the day finishing off the bikes, using a bit of left over fence to fix Lyn’s top box until I can get a plate to fix it properly. It was nearly 12.00 when we finished in the room, I was expecting to be booted out by then, but they were good about it. Nice smooth road north east to Barnaul, about 300 kms, where we got a cheap room for the night. On the way when we stopped for fuel, a car pulled up in front of us in the servo, and out jumped a couple we met at the wedding the previous day. Good to see them again, they are a lovely couple. As they live in Barnaul, they were on their way home from the wedding, ready for work the next day. Dinner that night and breakfast in the morning were sourced from the nearby supermarket.
Started the day finishing off the bikes, using a bit of left over fence to fix Lyn’s top box until I can get a plate to fix it properly. It was nearly 12.00 when we finished in the room, I was expecting to be booted out by then, but they were good about it. Nice smooth road north east to Barnaul, about 300 kms, where we got a cheap room for the night. On the way when we stopped for fuel, a car pulled up in front of us in the servo, and out jumped a couple we met at the wedding the previous day. Good to see them again, they are a lovely couple. As they live in Barnaul, they were on their way home from the wedding, ready for work the next day. Dinner that night and breakfast in the morning were sourced from the nearby supermarket.
25-27
From Barnaul we headed south east down to Gorno Altaysk, stopping for lunch at a roadside cafe. As usual, the menu was all in russian, and no-one spoke english, so we pointed at a bowl of meat and vege stew that some guy was eating, and ordered two of them. It was great, one of the best meals we have had in Russia. The stews and 2 cups of tea set us back about $3.60 aud, great value. In Gorno Altaysk we were going to catch up with Alistair and Marie Robinson, another couple who are travelling on bikes. Lately they have been doing trips of a few months at a time, and have covered most of the world. We had seen them doing an interview on the HU videos a couple of years ago before we left, good to meet them in person. They are travelling a lot lighter than us, and on 250cc bikes, doing it slower and using more backroads. After talking to them, it just confirmed my thoughts that we still have way too much stuff. Lyn had booked us into a hotel in town, so met up with Alistair and Marie for dinner and at a nearby cafe, the Grillman, which had really good food. Washed it down with a few beers, a great night. The next day we woke to the sound of rain on the roof, and neither of us wanted to move on, so we stayed another night, spending the day on bike maintenance and computers. Not super fun, but necessary every now and then. The plan for the last day was to do a day trip down towards Tashanta, near the Mongolian border, spend the night there, then come back the next day, as we had been told it was a very scenic ride. Thats how it started out, with a stop in at Altai-Moto on the way. We were hoping to catch up with Alistair and Marie on the way, but they had already left when we got there. Just down the road from there the rain started, and it bucketed down. Unfortunately with that came the cloud, and we couldn’t see anything anyway, so made the decision to head back to Gorno, and then off again north east tomorrow towards Irkutsk. Dinner that night was at a restaurant just a few minutes walk down the road, and we met Hans and Pauline, a Dutch couple staying at the same hotel as us. We ended up joining them for dinner, and had a great night chatting with them. It really is good to speak to someone in English again!
From Barnaul we headed south east down to Gorno Altaysk, stopping for lunch at a roadside cafe. As usual, the menu was all in russian, and no-one spoke english, so we pointed at a bowl of meat and vege stew that some guy was eating, and ordered two of them. It was great, one of the best meals we have had in Russia. The stews and 2 cups of tea set us back about $3.60 aud, great value. In Gorno Altaysk we were going to catch up with Alistair and Marie Robinson, another couple who are travelling on bikes. Lately they have been doing trips of a few months at a time, and have covered most of the world. We had seen them doing an interview on the HU videos a couple of years ago before we left, good to meet them in person. They are travelling a lot lighter than us, and on 250cc bikes, doing it slower and using more backroads. After talking to them, it just confirmed my thoughts that we still have way too much stuff. Lyn had booked us into a hotel in town, so met up with Alistair and Marie for dinner and at a nearby cafe, the Grillman, which had really good food. Washed it down with a few beers, a great night. The next day we woke to the sound of rain on the roof, and neither of us wanted to move on, so we stayed another night, spending the day on bike maintenance and computers. Not super fun, but necessary every now and then. The plan for the last day was to do a day trip down towards Tashanta, near the Mongolian border, spend the night there, then come back the next day, as we had been told it was a very scenic ride. Thats how it started out, with a stop in at Altai-Moto on the way. We were hoping to catch up with Alistair and Marie on the way, but they had already left when we got there. Just down the road from there the rain started, and it bucketed down. Unfortunately with that came the cloud, and we couldn’t see anything anyway, so made the decision to head back to Gorno, and then off again north east tomorrow towards Irkutsk. Dinner that night was at a restaurant just a few minutes walk down the road, and we met Hans and Pauline, a Dutch couple staying at the same hotel as us. We ended up joining them for dinner, and had a great night chatting with them. It really is good to speak to someone in English again!
Checking out the maps with Alistair and Marie
War memorial in Gorno Altaysk
Strange building code they have in Russia, just in case the world gets turned upside down
28
The rain had cleared overnight, although it was still overcast, but we packed up and got away towards Tashtogul, along secondary roads. The first 100 kms were sealed, so not a bad road, except for a few surprise potholes. After Turochak (where we stopped for a chai, and had a stranger pay for it for us as a gift), the road was all gravel, parts of it rough, some OK, we could stay on about 60 kmh for the good bits. The rain stayed away, so there was plenty of dust, and we were weary when we pulled into Tashtogul at around 5.00pm. Fuelled up, and found a hotel for the night. The back of it was in a construction yard, so that’s where the bikes were parked for the night.
The rain had cleared overnight, although it was still overcast, but we packed up and got away towards Tashtogul, along secondary roads. The first 100 kms were sealed, so not a bad road, except for a few surprise potholes. After Turochak (where we stopped for a chai, and had a stranger pay for it for us as a gift), the road was all gravel, parts of it rough, some OK, we could stay on about 60 kmh for the good bits. The rain stayed away, so there was plenty of dust, and we were weary when we pulled into Tashtogul at around 5.00pm. Fuelled up, and found a hotel for the night. The back of it was in a construction yard, so that’s where the bikes were parked for the night.
29
In the morning it was raining, and had been all night, so it looked like being a slow miserable day, and a lot of it on dirt roads, but we were pleasantly surprised to find the first 40 kms was sealed road. The dirt was really slippery when we hit it, but it was fairly wide, so not too bad. In the end there wasn’t as much unsealed road as we thought, and we made to the highway near Novokuznetsk a lot quicker than we thought we would. From there up the highway to Kemerovo, through a couple of good downpours, but there were a lot of breaks in the rain as well, so we didn’t stay wet for too long. Unfortunately there was a lot of cloud around, so no photos, not much to see on the way. We stopped for lunch at a cafe beside the road, why is it when you are looking for one there is 6 on the other side of the highway, and none on your side? Eventually we gave up, and crossed the highway to one, where we had a great feed and a brew, much needed. While we were in there, the coppers took up station outside at the entrance, and were pulling in all the trucks heading in the opposite direction to us, no doubt booking a couple along the way. As we were leaving, we were warned by the staff of the cafe not to cross the road to continue north, as we would get booked for it. We had to go south to a crossover, take that exit, and come back north again, bloody waste of time and petrol. Anyway, we found a hotel on the other side of Kemerovo, so we wouldn’t have to battle the traffic in the morning, and booked in. The owner is a biker as well, has a BMW GS 1200, and also has a friend living in Brisbane, so before I knew it I am on his mobile, talking to his mate Anton on the other side of the world. The guy wanted to help in any way he could, but as there is nothing we really need, just said hi, and left it at that. A snack from the cafe was plenty for tea, as we had a big lunch, so turned in early for the night.
In the morning it was raining, and had been all night, so it looked like being a slow miserable day, and a lot of it on dirt roads, but we were pleasantly surprised to find the first 40 kms was sealed road. The dirt was really slippery when we hit it, but it was fairly wide, so not too bad. In the end there wasn’t as much unsealed road as we thought, and we made to the highway near Novokuznetsk a lot quicker than we thought we would. From there up the highway to Kemerovo, through a couple of good downpours, but there were a lot of breaks in the rain as well, so we didn’t stay wet for too long. Unfortunately there was a lot of cloud around, so no photos, not much to see on the way. We stopped for lunch at a cafe beside the road, why is it when you are looking for one there is 6 on the other side of the highway, and none on your side? Eventually we gave up, and crossed the highway to one, where we had a great feed and a brew, much needed. While we were in there, the coppers took up station outside at the entrance, and were pulling in all the trucks heading in the opposite direction to us, no doubt booking a couple along the way. As we were leaving, we were warned by the staff of the cafe not to cross the road to continue north, as we would get booked for it. We had to go south to a crossover, take that exit, and come back north again, bloody waste of time and petrol. Anyway, we found a hotel on the other side of Kemerovo, so we wouldn’t have to battle the traffic in the morning, and booked in. The owner is a biker as well, has a BMW GS 1200, and also has a friend living in Brisbane, so before I knew it I am on his mobile, talking to his mate Anton on the other side of the world. The guy wanted to help in any way he could, but as there is nothing we really need, just said hi, and left it at that. A snack from the cafe was plenty for tea, as we had a big lunch, so turned in early for the night.
30
Woke up and it was raining, misty and cloudy, a really shitty looking day. If we were staying somewhere really nice, I would have booked in for another day, but we weren’t, so packed up, had breakfast in the cafe, (good, and the right price), and headed off. The rain persisted until about 1.00pm, and although it stopped raining, it was overcast until late afternoon, and then we scored a bit of sun. We had good roads, but due to the weather, no scenery, so no photos at all for the day. It was a big day, just over 500 kms, this section until Irkutsk just feels like a transit section, something that has to be ridden until we get to the next bit of the trip. Lyn found a hotel on line in Krasnoyask at the right price, and it turned out to be really nice, so that was home for the night.
Woke up and it was raining, misty and cloudy, a really shitty looking day. If we were staying somewhere really nice, I would have booked in for another day, but we weren’t, so packed up, had breakfast in the cafe, (good, and the right price), and headed off. The rain persisted until about 1.00pm, and although it stopped raining, it was overcast until late afternoon, and then we scored a bit of sun. We had good roads, but due to the weather, no scenery, so no photos at all for the day. It was a big day, just over 500 kms, this section until Irkutsk just feels like a transit section, something that has to be ridden until we get to the next bit of the trip. Lyn found a hotel on line in Krasnoyask at the right price, and it turned out to be really nice, so that was home for the night.
31
We discussed it last night, and decided if it was raining when we woke up, we would stay another day and not ride, and I think were both secretly hoping for rain, but it was dry in the morning, so we packed up and head off again. We only got lost once getting out of town, pretty good for us. The GPS is still a useless handlebar ornament, can’t wait to get to the states so it can earn its keep again. Garmin seems to be useless in Russia and the stans, no one uses them here, they all use a local ap on their smart phones. We have heard that since crossing the border from Finland. The road was good again today, except for a few kilometres after the town of Kansk, where it was rough rock, no bitumen, with a bit of dirt mixed in. As it was the main road running east west, all the trucks use it, and they were crawling along in low gear, so we had to go around them. 25 kph was the top speed we do on the road without everything rattling to pieces, so it was a long few kilometres. The road looked that bad we rode passed it on a minor road heading out of town, then couldn’t work out why the traffic stopped. Back on track, and out of town a bit, the good road came back, and we made good time for the rest of the day. There was plenty of cloud around, but it stayed dry all day. We planned to stop at a town called Tayshet, but it was off the road, and we didn’t recognise the name in russian and went passed the turnoff. Thinking we were on track, we hadn’t filled up with fuel, and coasted into Alzamay on fumes, 60 kms further down the road. There was 0.4 of a litre left in my tank when I filled up! Near the servo there is a couple of hotels, used mainly by the truckies, that charge out the rooms by the hour. Lyn had a tough time trying to explain we wanted the room to sleep in all night!! The cafe next door had good food at the right price, 570 roubles (about $11 aud) for half litre of beer, 2 bowls of chicken noodle soup, and 2 plates of goulash, with chips and vegetables.
We discussed it last night, and decided if it was raining when we woke up, we would stay another day and not ride, and I think were both secretly hoping for rain, but it was dry in the morning, so we packed up and head off again. We only got lost once getting out of town, pretty good for us. The GPS is still a useless handlebar ornament, can’t wait to get to the states so it can earn its keep again. Garmin seems to be useless in Russia and the stans, no one uses them here, they all use a local ap on their smart phones. We have heard that since crossing the border from Finland. The road was good again today, except for a few kilometres after the town of Kansk, where it was rough rock, no bitumen, with a bit of dirt mixed in. As it was the main road running east west, all the trucks use it, and they were crawling along in low gear, so we had to go around them. 25 kph was the top speed we do on the road without everything rattling to pieces, so it was a long few kilometres. The road looked that bad we rode passed it on a minor road heading out of town, then couldn’t work out why the traffic stopped. Back on track, and out of town a bit, the good road came back, and we made good time for the rest of the day. There was plenty of cloud around, but it stayed dry all day. We planned to stop at a town called Tayshet, but it was off the road, and we didn’t recognise the name in russian and went passed the turnoff. Thinking we were on track, we hadn’t filled up with fuel, and coasted into Alzamay on fumes, 60 kms further down the road. There was 0.4 of a litre left in my tank when I filled up! Near the servo there is a couple of hotels, used mainly by the truckies, that charge out the rooms by the hour. Lyn had a tough time trying to explain we wanted the room to sleep in all night!! The cafe next door had good food at the right price, 570 roubles (about $11 aud) for half litre of beer, 2 bowls of chicken noodle soup, and 2 plates of goulash, with chips and vegetables.
1st-2nd August
Cloudy but dry when we woke up, and we were going to try to make Irkutsk today, about 600 kms, but we found out that we had ridden through another time zone yesterday afternoon, and had lost another hour, so instead of being on the road by 8 o’clock, it was 9 o’clock, and we had to pay for another bloody hour on the room as well! A fairly uneventful ride, fairly good roads, with the usual bad patches thrown in to keep us awake, and plenty of road works going on as well. At one lot, where one lane was closed off, and the traffic was controlled by traffic lights, we moved off when our light went green, only to find three or four cars coming down the road towards us. Just as well we were on bikes, and managed to squeeze past the light jumpers, not sure what happened behind us when they met the trucks……… Along one section we met a police escort and a bus, following a runner carrying what looked like the olympic torch. Lyn did a u turn and went back to talk to the guy, and got her picture taken holding the torch. We still don’t know what games they were for, as no one spoke english, and the olympic torch is in Rio now.
Cloudy but dry when we woke up, and we were going to try to make Irkutsk today, about 600 kms, but we found out that we had ridden through another time zone yesterday afternoon, and had lost another hour, so instead of being on the road by 8 o’clock, it was 9 o’clock, and we had to pay for another bloody hour on the room as well! A fairly uneventful ride, fairly good roads, with the usual bad patches thrown in to keep us awake, and plenty of road works going on as well. At one lot, where one lane was closed off, and the traffic was controlled by traffic lights, we moved off when our light went green, only to find three or four cars coming down the road towards us. Just as well we were on bikes, and managed to squeeze past the light jumpers, not sure what happened behind us when they met the trucks……… Along one section we met a police escort and a bus, following a runner carrying what looked like the olympic torch. Lyn did a u turn and went back to talk to the guy, and got her picture taken holding the torch. We still don’t know what games they were for, as no one spoke english, and the olympic torch is in Rio now.
The runner with the torch on the highway
Lyn with the torch, and yes, she did give it back to the runner
We made it to Irkutsk at about 7.00pm, and got a double room at the Irkutsk Hostel for two nights. I’m glad we weren’t riding the next day, it was raining when we woke up, and had been most of the night. It continued on and off most of the day, but we did go for a ride around town in the early afternoon, and checked out a bikers bar, but it was empty, wrong time of the day. Stopped at a big shopping centre and got a couple of things on the way home, and Lyn met a girl in the carpark that spoke good english, an MCC prospect for a local club, who gave us a hand to try to put some more money on our sim card. She ended up coming back to the hostel with us for a few drinks, it was nice to meet you Anna. She also told us about a bike rally that was on at Lake Baikal this week end, so we may end up going to that.
Wheat growing beside the road, we are deep in Siberia now, it's a big place
3-4
There is something really depressing about waking up to head off somewhere on a bike and it is pissing down with rain. Anyway, we checked out of the hostel to ride to Bolshoye Goloustnoye, only to take the wrong road out of Irkutsk and ride about 50 kms in the wrong direction, then turning around and having to ride all the way back to Irkutsk to take the correct road out of town to get where we were going to. The problem started with road works, the turnoff we were supposed to take had been demolished to make way for a new highway parallel to the existing road, so all signs and the turnoff itself were totally gone, hence we just kept riding with out turning off our road until we realised our mistake. I really look forward to having our GPS again! Once on the correct road, we made good time until we came around a bend and the bitumen stopped. After that followed almost a hundred kilometres of slippery slimy clay, mixed in with a few sections of corrugations and rock, an absolute shit of a ride. If we hadn’t already booked our accommodation online, we would have turned around and gone back. The rain wasn’t heavy, and eased off altogether part of the way along, which made it a bit better, but we were filthy when we arrived. The town is on the edge of Lake Baikal, the largest fresh water lake on earth, holding about 20% of the planets freshwater. I’m sure it looks really nice under a warm blue sky, but it just looks like a lake under cool grey skies. We managed to locate the cabins we had booked into, henceforth to be known as Fawlty Towers. There is no front entrance, you ride down a side street to the lake and in through a side gate to a back yard. We were met by an older guy with a 3 day growth, lots of missing teeth, and a bleary eyed stare that looked very vodka induced. He spoke no english, and it took a while to work out if he was a guest, owner, or employee. We still don’t know which of the last two he is. He had no record of us booking in online, but showed us a cabin and indicated we should move in. It had a toilet in it, and wash basin, but no shower.There was another cabin in the corner of the yard with a shower, apparently everyone uses that. No problem, we can handle that. We asked for the wi fi code, and that drew a blank stare. Fortunately, another woman who was the friend of another guest was summoned, and came and did a bit of translating for us, as we were getting ready to leave. It turns out there is no wi fi, so booking .com will hear about that, as it was one of the reasons we booked the place. The front part is also a cafe, but that was not open, as Manuel was in no state to cook, and was the only one here to do anything, so nothing got done. We moved in, then went across the road to another cafe advertising wi fi, to eat, only to be told by the girl behind the counter that they didn’t have wi fi either. We left tried a few more places that weren’t open, came back to the one across the road and tried again, were told by the owner, yes we have wifi, and pointed to a sign that had the code on it. Great, so we ordered some food and a drink, sat down, and tried the wi fi. Guess what, it wasn’t working……. Starting to become a little sceptical, I am…….. We ate our meal and wandered back to Fawlty Towers for the night. There was a nice looking cafe at the other end of town that advertised wi fi, so we went up there for most of the following day to catch up on computer stuff, and met a young couple that spoke english. The cafe was good, food and coffee was good, wi fi worked, and the owner helpful, a great spot. Back at Fawlty Towers I went over the bikes, and found the road had cracked the pannier racks on my bike, needed welding. I showed them to Manuel, and he surprised me by showing me a welder he had in his shed. I could use it he said, so that that was the problem solved. I got it done by dark, and we had an early night, to get ready for the ride back tomorrow.
There is something really depressing about waking up to head off somewhere on a bike and it is pissing down with rain. Anyway, we checked out of the hostel to ride to Bolshoye Goloustnoye, only to take the wrong road out of Irkutsk and ride about 50 kms in the wrong direction, then turning around and having to ride all the way back to Irkutsk to take the correct road out of town to get where we were going to. The problem started with road works, the turnoff we were supposed to take had been demolished to make way for a new highway parallel to the existing road, so all signs and the turnoff itself were totally gone, hence we just kept riding with out turning off our road until we realised our mistake. I really look forward to having our GPS again! Once on the correct road, we made good time until we came around a bend and the bitumen stopped. After that followed almost a hundred kilometres of slippery slimy clay, mixed in with a few sections of corrugations and rock, an absolute shit of a ride. If we hadn’t already booked our accommodation online, we would have turned around and gone back. The rain wasn’t heavy, and eased off altogether part of the way along, which made it a bit better, but we were filthy when we arrived. The town is on the edge of Lake Baikal, the largest fresh water lake on earth, holding about 20% of the planets freshwater. I’m sure it looks really nice under a warm blue sky, but it just looks like a lake under cool grey skies. We managed to locate the cabins we had booked into, henceforth to be known as Fawlty Towers. There is no front entrance, you ride down a side street to the lake and in through a side gate to a back yard. We were met by an older guy with a 3 day growth, lots of missing teeth, and a bleary eyed stare that looked very vodka induced. He spoke no english, and it took a while to work out if he was a guest, owner, or employee. We still don’t know which of the last two he is. He had no record of us booking in online, but showed us a cabin and indicated we should move in. It had a toilet in it, and wash basin, but no shower.There was another cabin in the corner of the yard with a shower, apparently everyone uses that. No problem, we can handle that. We asked for the wi fi code, and that drew a blank stare. Fortunately, another woman who was the friend of another guest was summoned, and came and did a bit of translating for us, as we were getting ready to leave. It turns out there is no wi fi, so booking .com will hear about that, as it was one of the reasons we booked the place. The front part is also a cafe, but that was not open, as Manuel was in no state to cook, and was the only one here to do anything, so nothing got done. We moved in, then went across the road to another cafe advertising wi fi, to eat, only to be told by the girl behind the counter that they didn’t have wi fi either. We left tried a few more places that weren’t open, came back to the one across the road and tried again, were told by the owner, yes we have wifi, and pointed to a sign that had the code on it. Great, so we ordered some food and a drink, sat down, and tried the wi fi. Guess what, it wasn’t working……. Starting to become a little sceptical, I am…….. We ate our meal and wandered back to Fawlty Towers for the night. There was a nice looking cafe at the other end of town that advertised wi fi, so we went up there for most of the following day to catch up on computer stuff, and met a young couple that spoke english. The cafe was good, food and coffee was good, wi fi worked, and the owner helpful, a great spot. Back at Fawlty Towers I went over the bikes, and found the road had cracked the pannier racks on my bike, needed welding. I showed them to Manuel, and he surprised me by showing me a welder he had in his shed. I could use it he said, so that that was the problem solved. I got it done by dark, and we had an early night, to get ready for the ride back tomorrow.
Lyn at Fawlty Towers
One of the locals checking us out
Another local who wasn't.......
Jetty on the lake near Fawlty Towers
On the verandah at Fawlty Towers
5
We left after a bill dispute with Manuel, it was raining, cold, and the road back to Irkutsk had got worse, it was a rough, wet, shitty ride. Lyn had found a good hotel on the net, so we booked in there, and it turned out to be the opposite to Fawlty Towers, nice room, helpful owners, a bit of english so we could understand each other, a good end to a tough day.
We left after a bill dispute with Manuel, it was raining, cold, and the road back to Irkutsk had got worse, it was a rough, wet, shitty ride. Lyn had found a good hotel on the net, so we booked in there, and it turned out to be the opposite to Fawlty Towers, nice room, helpful owners, a bit of english so we could understand each other, a good end to a tough day.
6
The day was lot nicer, so we headed off to the bike rally, bitumen nearly all the way, about 50 kms out of the city. It was a great day, heaps of bikers of all types, both MC and MCC clubs, with everyone getting on well, and lots of drinking going on. A large stage was set up, with bands, a few competions, like the loudest exhaust, and we picked up a litre of oil for winning the furtherest travelled. Word got around about the two australians, and we were targeted for a TV interview as well. The only thing that ruined the day was the news that two young bikers had got full of vodka, got on their bikes and gone for a ride, crashed, and were both killed. One of the bike clubs, (The Vampires,) had sort of adopted us, as one of the members could speak good english, and he translated for us. We met so many good people there, we are never going to remember them all. Lyn went to bed, then came looking for me as I hadn’t turned up at the tent, and found me drinking with some other guys that I had met near the stage, so she ended up staying with us for a couple more vodkas, it turned out to be a long, late night.
The day was lot nicer, so we headed off to the bike rally, bitumen nearly all the way, about 50 kms out of the city. It was a great day, heaps of bikers of all types, both MC and MCC clubs, with everyone getting on well, and lots of drinking going on. A large stage was set up, with bands, a few competions, like the loudest exhaust, and we picked up a litre of oil for winning the furtherest travelled. Word got around about the two australians, and we were targeted for a TV interview as well. The only thing that ruined the day was the news that two young bikers had got full of vodka, got on their bikes and gone for a ride, crashed, and were both killed. One of the bike clubs, (The Vampires,) had sort of adopted us, as one of the members could speak good english, and he translated for us. We met so many good people there, we are never going to remember them all. Lyn went to bed, then came looking for me as I hadn’t turned up at the tent, and found me drinking with some other guys that I had met near the stage, so she ended up staying with us for a couple more vodkas, it turned out to be a long, late night.
Russian road train, the tanks are for beer........
With some new friends, really good people, had a great time with them even though we struggled with the language
With another couple we met, they came off their bike a few days before the rally, hence the crutches
Being introduced to the crowd as "The Aussies", before winning the longest travelled prize
"Hottabytch" from the Vampires and his wife
Lyn with the dance troupe, don't know why she is next to the dude with no shirt on.........
7
Surprise surprise, we had a late start the next day, leaving the rally hung over, planning on just going back to Irkutsk to sleep, but ended up riding to utulik, about 200 kms along the way to Ulaan Ude, where we found a guest house for the night, and slept there.
Surprise surprise, we had a late start the next day, leaving the rally hung over, planning on just going back to Irkutsk to sleep, but ended up riding to utulik, about 200 kms along the way to Ulaan Ude, where we found a guest house for the night, and slept there.
8-9
Nice ride to Ulan-Ude, where we met up with Margaret Peart, a lady that has been travelling on a bike since 2004 . Good weather, fairly good road, except for some bad spots, and lots of roadworks. We had booked into the same hotel as Margaret, it was good to talk to another aussie again. We spent some time looking around the city, and even got the GPS working again with Margaret’s help, yippee!
Nice ride to Ulan-Ude, where we met up with Margaret Peart, a lady that has been travelling on a bike since 2004 . Good weather, fairly good road, except for some bad spots, and lots of roadworks. We had booked into the same hotel as Margaret, it was good to talk to another aussie again. We spent some time looking around the city, and even got the GPS working again with Margaret’s help, yippee!
View of the lake on the way to Ulan Ude
Another view along the road
With Margaret and the worlds largest statue of Lenin's head
Square in Ulan Ude, really pretty place
Mini Arch de Triumphe in Ulan Ude
With Margaret and the bikes at the hotel, just before we left Ulan Ude
Three aussie bikes in Ulan Ude
