The border crossing into canada at Calais
17
From Ellsworth we followed the road east, actually as far east as you can go in mainland USA, to Quoddy Head, near Lubec. We took the obligatory photo near the lighthouse, before continuing on across the border into Canada near Calais. A fairly simple crossing, no dramas, just the usual questions, then onto St John, where we camped for the night near the “Reversing Rapids” As it is near the Bay of Fundy, which has the world’s highest tides, (about 17 meters sometimes), the rapids flow out when the tide is going out, but the incoming tide goes so high that the water rushes back up the river, and the water flows back over the same rapids the other way, pretty crazy stuff. We ended up shifting during the night, as where we were parked, the noise of the paper mill across the river, and the water poring over the rocks was so loud Lyn couldn’t sleep, so we found a car park not far away and had a much quieter night.
From Ellsworth we followed the road east, actually as far east as you can go in mainland USA, to Quoddy Head, near Lubec. We took the obligatory photo near the lighthouse, before continuing on across the border into Canada near Calais. A fairly simple crossing, no dramas, just the usual questions, then onto St John, where we camped for the night near the “Reversing Rapids” As it is near the Bay of Fundy, which has the world’s highest tides, (about 17 meters sometimes), the rapids flow out when the tide is going out, but the incoming tide goes so high that the water rushes back up the river, and the water flows back over the same rapids the other way, pretty crazy stuff. We ended up shifting during the night, as where we were parked, the noise of the paper mill across the river, and the water poring over the rocks was so loud Lyn couldn’t sleep, so we found a car park not far away and had a much quieter night.
18
Our plan was to spent a couple of days on Prince Edward Island,(PEI), but on the way there we also wanted to walk on the ocean floor, which you can do at Hopewell Rocks, where the tidal change is at its largest. For a couple of hours between the top and bottom of the tides, you can walk around the rocks at a headland, knowing in a few hours time they will be 20 foot or more under the sea. The weather wasn’t being kind to us, very windy and raining, so we got soaked doing it, but it was worth doing all the same. From there we crossed the 12.9 km long bridge over to PEI, and found a spot on the ap I Overlander to park near Summerside, which turned out to be a good find. The bridge is a toll bridge, but you only pay on the way back to the mainland, $47, and we planned to use the ferry, so no toll for us. It rained all night, and was still really windy, but we were nice and warm and dry in the truck. It is soooo much easier than travelling on the bikes.
Our plan was to spent a couple of days on Prince Edward Island,(PEI), but on the way there we also wanted to walk on the ocean floor, which you can do at Hopewell Rocks, where the tidal change is at its largest. For a couple of hours between the top and bottom of the tides, you can walk around the rocks at a headland, knowing in a few hours time they will be 20 foot or more under the sea. The weather wasn’t being kind to us, very windy and raining, so we got soaked doing it, but it was worth doing all the same. From there we crossed the 12.9 km long bridge over to PEI, and found a spot on the ap I Overlander to park near Summerside, which turned out to be a good find. The bridge is a toll bridge, but you only pay on the way back to the mainland, $47, and we planned to use the ferry, so no toll for us. It rained all night, and was still really windy, but we were nice and warm and dry in the truck. It is soooo much easier than travelling on the bikes.
The last part of the bridge going over to PEI
19
A typical late start for us, and we headed clockwise around the western island, going up to North Cape, before travelling east onto the centre island. The whole island has a strong fishing base, and lobsters rate high on the agenda here. Consequently they are fairly cheap here compared to most places, so we stopped a local fishery and bought a 1 pound tub of lobster meat for $25 Canadian. Caught that morning, it doesn’t come much fresher! Near the town of Darnley, there is a rock that has survived while all the rock around it has washed away, so it stands isolated on its thin little base, and tapers up to a larger top, a bit like an inverted triangle. It is known as “Teapot Rock”, and the tides were favourable, so we went for the short walk along the beach to have a look at it. Fortunately the weather had cleared up, and we actually had periods of sunshine, so it wasn’t a bad walk. Time was passing, so we continued on to Cavendish, another town near the northern coastline, and found a park in the visitors centre carpark for the night. A good spot, even has wifi.
A typical late start for us, and we headed clockwise around the western island, going up to North Cape, before travelling east onto the centre island. The whole island has a strong fishing base, and lobsters rate high on the agenda here. Consequently they are fairly cheap here compared to most places, so we stopped a local fishery and bought a 1 pound tub of lobster meat for $25 Canadian. Caught that morning, it doesn’t come much fresher! Near the town of Darnley, there is a rock that has survived while all the rock around it has washed away, so it stands isolated on its thin little base, and tapers up to a larger top, a bit like an inverted triangle. It is known as “Teapot Rock”, and the tides were favourable, so we went for the short walk along the beach to have a look at it. Fortunately the weather had cleared up, and we actually had periods of sunshine, so it wasn’t a bad walk. Time was passing, so we continued on to Cavendish, another town near the northern coastline, and found a park in the visitors centre carpark for the night. A good spot, even has wifi.
Lyn at Teapot Rock
20
Another day spent following the coast road clockwise around the island, crossing little bridges, and passing through little fishing villages. We were really surprised by the amount of lobster boats, there are hundred of them, and where ever we stopped to look out over the water, there were literally thousands of lobster pot floats, it is a wonder there are any left out there to breed. There was nowhere we looked out and could see clear water, it would be a nightmare sailing a boat through there. Another thing that surprised us about PEI was the lawns, everybody had neatly trimmed and mown lawns all around their property, the whole island is either plowed fields, crops, trees, or lawn. Their doesn’t seem to be anybody that doesn’t have their own ride on mower, we even saw a guy mowing a field of about 20 acres on his John Deere ride on! If it's grass, mow it! That night was at the end of a little road overlooking the water at a place called Cardigan Bay, nice and quiet, just the odd local coming down for a look at the sea, to give him a break for the constant mowing, they must get bored in winter when everything is covered in snow. maybe they have winter ride ons, with heated cabs?
Another day spent following the coast road clockwise around the island, crossing little bridges, and passing through little fishing villages. We were really surprised by the amount of lobster boats, there are hundred of them, and where ever we stopped to look out over the water, there were literally thousands of lobster pot floats, it is a wonder there are any left out there to breed. There was nowhere we looked out and could see clear water, it would be a nightmare sailing a boat through there. Another thing that surprised us about PEI was the lawns, everybody had neatly trimmed and mown lawns all around their property, the whole island is either plowed fields, crops, trees, or lawn. Their doesn’t seem to be anybody that doesn’t have their own ride on mower, we even saw a guy mowing a field of about 20 acres on his John Deere ride on! If it's grass, mow it! That night was at the end of a little road overlooking the water at a place called Cardigan Bay, nice and quiet, just the odd local coming down for a look at the sea, to give him a break for the constant mowing, they must get bored in winter when everything is covered in snow. maybe they have winter ride ons, with heated cabs?
A young fox we saw at North Cape Lighthouse
At North Cape lighthouse
21-22
The plan for today was to amble down to near Wood Islands, where the ferry leaves from, spend the night there, and catch the ferry the next morning, but it was much closer than we thought, and we found ourselves arriving there just before 1.00pm. There was a ferry with room on it just about to leave, so we drove straight on, they pulled the ramp up behind us, and we were off, leaving the island before we had even got out of the truck. The trip is just over an hour, and cost us $104, not bad considering it would have cost us $47 to use the bridge, and saved us half a day of driving and fuel. We headed for Halifax, in Nova Scotia, where we had organised to leave the truck in a guys yard while we flew to St Johns, in Newfoundland. Colin was a guy we met at the HU meeting in Ontario, and he had room at his house for Izzy, but unfortunately he would be away working while we were there, so had organised with a friend of his, Roger, to look after us while we were there. Roger met us at the house, and we got Izzy squeezed up the driveway and settled for the week. Due to catching the ferry a day earlier than planned, we had the next day to look around Halifax, so we unloaded the bike and rode into the city. A free walking tour filled a couple of hours, very informative, and we met some more travellers on the tour that we seemed to click with, so all went for a drink at a nearby bar on the dock after the walk. A great time, with Anja from Germany, young lady from Russia, (now living in the US), and Albert from Texas. The short ride back to Izzy was uneventful, and we had a fairly early night before our flight to St Johns the next morning.
The plan for today was to amble down to near Wood Islands, where the ferry leaves from, spend the night there, and catch the ferry the next morning, but it was much closer than we thought, and we found ourselves arriving there just before 1.00pm. There was a ferry with room on it just about to leave, so we drove straight on, they pulled the ramp up behind us, and we were off, leaving the island before we had even got out of the truck. The trip is just over an hour, and cost us $104, not bad considering it would have cost us $47 to use the bridge, and saved us half a day of driving and fuel. We headed for Halifax, in Nova Scotia, where we had organised to leave the truck in a guys yard while we flew to St Johns, in Newfoundland. Colin was a guy we met at the HU meeting in Ontario, and he had room at his house for Izzy, but unfortunately he would be away working while we were there, so had organised with a friend of his, Roger, to look after us while we were there. Roger met us at the house, and we got Izzy squeezed up the driveway and settled for the week. Due to catching the ferry a day earlier than planned, we had the next day to look around Halifax, so we unloaded the bike and rode into the city. A free walking tour filled a couple of hours, very informative, and we met some more travellers on the tour that we seemed to click with, so all went for a drink at a nearby bar on the dock after the walk. A great time, with Anja from Germany, young lady from Russia, (now living in the US), and Albert from Texas. The short ride back to Izzy was uneventful, and we had a fairly early night before our flight to St Johns the next morning.
The clock tower in Halifax
Mannequin looking out of the top floor window of a hotel in Halifax, apparently the place used to be a place of ill repute.....
Drinks after the walk
Izzy squeezed down the side of Colin's house, it was a tight fit
23-29
Roger was kind enough to give us a lift out to the airport the next morning, and it was a pleasant flight on a twin engined propeller plane to St Johns, where Ken Brown met us at the airport. We had met Ken and Michelle at Mazatlan in Mexico 2 years earlier, and they had been asking us to visit them ever since, so we took them up on their offer. While they both work in the city, they have a house about 50 kilometres away on the shore of a lake, so we were whisked up there and given free run of their “cabin”. A beautiful place, very comfortable, thanks heaps guys, it is fantastic! Unfortunately the weather wasn’t all that great, with rain coming in Sunday, and continuing for a few days, and with temperatures around 6 degrees during the day, it wasn’t conducive to a lot of outside activity. The view over the lake was stunning though, you would never get tired of it. By wednesday, the weather had picked up a bit, and Ken picked us up and took us in to pick up a rental car he had organised for us, and we spent a couple of days exploring part of the island, a really pretty place, but still too cold and windy for us.
Roger was kind enough to give us a lift out to the airport the next morning, and it was a pleasant flight on a twin engined propeller plane to St Johns, where Ken Brown met us at the airport. We had met Ken and Michelle at Mazatlan in Mexico 2 years earlier, and they had been asking us to visit them ever since, so we took them up on their offer. While they both work in the city, they have a house about 50 kilometres away on the shore of a lake, so we were whisked up there and given free run of their “cabin”. A beautiful place, very comfortable, thanks heaps guys, it is fantastic! Unfortunately the weather wasn’t all that great, with rain coming in Sunday, and continuing for a few days, and with temperatures around 6 degrees during the day, it wasn’t conducive to a lot of outside activity. The view over the lake was stunning though, you would never get tired of it. By wednesday, the weather had picked up a bit, and Ken picked us up and took us in to pick up a rental car he had organised for us, and we spent a couple of days exploring part of the island, a really pretty place, but still too cold and windy for us.
Dinner with Ken and Michelle.
The view over the lake from Ken & Michelle's cabin, not too shabby.
The Canadians love their big red chairs, they are at all the good scenic spots
The port of St Johns in the background
Signpost at Cape Spear, the most easterly point in what is considered North America
They have some strange names for the towns around here.......
Miles of coastline like this, very pretty, with crystal clear water
30-1st July
Our last day in Newfoundland, and we said goodbye to Ken and Michelle around lunchtime, and drove into St Johns, where we had a look around and a late lunch, then drove to the airport, despite google maps doing everything in its power to stop us getting there. The flight back was fine, in a jet plane this time, and there was plenty of spare seats. Caught the bus from the airport back to Halifax, it’s quite a trip, about 30 kms, would hate to pay for taxi that far. Anyway, Izzy was fine, the fridge was nice and cold, and all was good. We planned to spend the next day in town, as it was “Canada Day”, and there was some celebrations going on, including a free concert in one of the parks, and some fireworks that night, so that was us for the day. It was a lot warmer in Nova Scotia, loving it.
Our last day in Newfoundland, and we said goodbye to Ken and Michelle around lunchtime, and drove into St Johns, where we had a look around and a late lunch, then drove to the airport, despite google maps doing everything in its power to stop us getting there. The flight back was fine, in a jet plane this time, and there was plenty of spare seats. Caught the bus from the airport back to Halifax, it’s quite a trip, about 30 kms, would hate to pay for taxi that far. Anyway, Izzy was fine, the fridge was nice and cold, and all was good. We planned to spend the next day in town, as it was “Canada Day”, and there was some celebrations going on, including a free concert in one of the parks, and some fireworks that night, so that was us for the day. It was a lot warmer in Nova Scotia, loving it.
Halifax city skyline from Dartmouth, across the river
2
Roger came around next morning to say goodbye, and we headed off around 10.00am, following Rogers suggestion that we travel along the northern side of the bay of Fundy on the way out. Lunch time found us near Five Islands, so we drove into the park and used their benches for a feed overlooking the water, quite nice, but the mozzies were really friendly, so we packed up early and hit the road. We did call in at Joggins, to see their fossil cliffs, but we really couldn’t see much to get excited about, so we continued on. From there to Moncton in New Brunswick, where we found a great spot on I Overlander in a carpark for a nature park, with lots of hiking trails. Turned out to be a nice quiet night.
Roger came around next morning to say goodbye, and we headed off around 10.00am, following Rogers suggestion that we travel along the northern side of the bay of Fundy on the way out. Lunch time found us near Five Islands, so we drove into the park and used their benches for a feed overlooking the water, quite nice, but the mozzies were really friendly, so we packed up early and hit the road. We did call in at Joggins, to see their fossil cliffs, but we really couldn’t see much to get excited about, so we continued on. From there to Moncton in New Brunswick, where we found a great spot on I Overlander in a carpark for a nature park, with lots of hiking trails. Turned out to be a nice quiet night.
Joggins Fossil Cliffs
Hiking trail through the forest where we parked for the night just outside Moncton, we did a 3 or 4 km walk through the park
