Boarding the ferry for Africa
5th Oct
The day dawned bright and warm, and we left fairly early (for us), for the ride back through the hills to the ferry terminal at Algeciras. Through customs, and onto the boat for the one and half hour crossing to Tangier Med. Our passports were stamped on the ferry, and we lined up with some other bikers to get through customs, where we found out we needed to get some more details entered into their computer, so back and forwards the wrong way along one way roads to find the right place to get this done, then over to get the expensive insurance, (around $90 AUD each for 1 month), before we could escape the nice new terminal. Out into the countryside,
The day dawned bright and warm, and we left fairly early (for us), for the ride back through the hills to the ferry terminal at Algeciras. Through customs, and onto the boat for the one and half hour crossing to Tangier Med. Our passports were stamped on the ferry, and we lined up with some other bikers to get through customs, where we found out we needed to get some more details entered into their computer, so back and forwards the wrong way along one way roads to find the right place to get this done, then over to get the expensive insurance, (around $90 AUD each for 1 month), before we could escape the nice new terminal. Out into the countryside,
Campsite at Chefchaouen
we rode good roads through surprisingly green mountains, to the town of Chefchaouen, in the Rif mountains, where we had been told of a good campsite. $8 AUD was a lot better than we had been paying in Europe, and we camped next to a couple of German bikers, Michael and Ruth, who we shared a drink with that night. Lyn and I headed off to find some dinner, eventually having a 3 course meal in a nice hotel near the campground, at a very cheap price. I think we have been in Europe too long! It turns out we had arrived in Morocco on the 2nd day of a 4 day holiday, so a lot of things were closed, and would be until wednesday.
Scenery on the road to Fes
6th - 7th Oct
We had decided to ride with Michael and Ruth for a few days, as we going the same way, and had the same ideas on what we wanted to see, so set off for Fez via Ouezzane. The road was rough in places, but the scenery spectacular. Lots of donkeys being used to carry massive loads, including water in 200 litre drums from wells beside the road, where there was always a gathering of people. We stopped for fuel at a servo, and Michael filled up Ruth's bike with diesel by mistake, easy to do with most writing in arabic, we learnt to use the orange and green colour code system after that. Being a carby bike, it was easy drained and refuelled, no damage done.
We had decided to ride with Michael and Ruth for a few days, as we going the same way, and had the same ideas on what we wanted to see, so set off for Fez via Ouezzane. The road was rough in places, but the scenery spectacular. Lots of donkeys being used to carry massive loads, including water in 200 litre drums from wells beside the road, where there was always a gathering of people. We stopped for fuel at a servo, and Michael filled up Ruth's bike with diesel by mistake, easy to do with most writing in arabic, we learnt to use the orange and green colour code system after that. Being a carby bike, it was easy drained and refuelled, no damage done.
Lunch stop at a small town
Lunch in a small town along the way, then a very scenic ride to Fez, where we were met by touts telling us their hotel was the best, etc, and wanting to lead us there. We followed one guy, but it was to expensive, and they wouldn't come down far enough in price, so we found another that suited, and had a lock up area for the bikes. The guy running the place was very helpful, and led us through the narrow alleys in the Medina to a restaurant that served wine with meals, hard to find in a muslim city. Even buying alcohol is difficult, some supermarkets sell it, but only at certain times. There were sheep skins everywhere, as the holiday we had arrived in was the sheep festival, and everybody ate lamb for 4 days. Not a
Rooftop tannery in Fez
good time to be a sheep. The next day we spent looking around Fez, including a tour through the Medina, ( the old walled section of the city, closed off to vehicles), visiting a rooftop tannery, producing some of the best and softest leather you can buy. Skins used are camel, cow, sheep, and goat. Also visited a handmade carpet place, spice merchants, dudes with looms making cloth from cactus leaves, and weavers. Interesting stuff. The four of us went out for dinner, had a large 3 course meal, bringing our own alcoholic drinks, the cost was around $11.00 each. We have too many photos to put on the blog, but will put them in the gallery when we get a chance, the Medina is an interesting place to visit.
Drink stop near Taza
8th - 9th Oct
After the rest? (lots of walking) day in Fez, the four of us left around 11.00am east towards Taza, then down a fairly narrow rough bitumen road through a gorge towards Serrou. On one big bump, the bikes left the road, and the spare helmet and some other stuff flew off the back of Lyn's bike onto the road. Not sure how good that helmet will be in future..... At a different spot, an indicator also came off Ruth's bike, but Lyn was behind her and picked it up. It amazed us that we could be in the middle of nowhere, with no buildings or human signs visible anywhere, and then there would be people standing beside the road. Why? Where did they come from?
After the rest? (lots of walking) day in Fez, the four of us left around 11.00am east towards Taza, then down a fairly narrow rough bitumen road through a gorge towards Serrou. On one big bump, the bikes left the road, and the spare helmet and some other stuff flew off the back of Lyn's bike onto the road. Not sure how good that helmet will be in future..... At a different spot, an indicator also came off Ruth's bike, but Lyn was behind her and picked it up. It amazed us that we could be in the middle of nowhere, with no buildings or human signs visible anywhere, and then there would be people standing beside the road. Why? Where did they come from?
Sammy the Yammy having a rest and enjoying the view
Biggest selling 4WD in Morocco.....
Donkeys were all over the place, some just standing in the middle of nowhere, others carrying people, goods, or pulling carts. Next most popular are the Mercedes Benz taxis, and mini buses or vans, all about 20 years old, and very battered looking, but still carrying about 17 people, and the mini buses even more..... We arrived in Ifane, and found a modern, clean, and well laid out town, and the location of one of the king's palaces. The town looked out of place in its surroundings, and there were police everywhere, with roadblocks, and nasty looking tyre spikes ready to drag across the road to stop anyone trying to get through. After asking directions from the police, and being sent the wrong way, we headed for
Our rooftop campsite for two days in Azrou
Azrou, and found Eurocamping, a campsite recommended by Peter from Atlas Overland who we met in Tarifa. We were going to pitch our tent, but decided to sleep under the stars on the roof of one of the storage sheds they have for workers equipment, and it proved a good choice. The cost was 100 Dm per night, about $12.50 AUD. Lyn and I stayed there the next day and did some washing and got online, while Michael and Ruth headed off to ride the area for the day. We went into town for lunch, big feed really cheap, then came back and met Ray, leading a group of motorhomes on a tour around Morocco. The four of us ended up finishing off the groups leftover stew for tea, very nice. A cold night under the stars, and the dogs didn't shut up at all.
Roadside stop on the road to Khenifra
10th Oct
Today we rode through some terrific gorges on the way to Khenifra. There was a a little bit of unsealed road, most of the rest was narrow and broken bitumen, and passing cars was a problem if they wouldn't move over, but most of the drivers were very courteous. The spectacular scenery was by now getting routine, not sure how we will cope riding in Oz when we get back?
Lyn somehow managed to drop her bike near a small village, but was going slow, no harm or damage done. From Khenifra down to Imilchil, and Auberge Tislit, another recommended overnight stop. No wi fi, 12volt power, but 250Dm per night, including dinner and
Today we rode through some terrific gorges on the way to Khenifra. There was a a little bit of unsealed road, most of the rest was narrow and broken bitumen, and passing cars was a problem if they wouldn't move over, but most of the drivers were very courteous. The spectacular scenery was by now getting routine, not sure how we will cope riding in Oz when we get back?
Lyn somehow managed to drop her bike near a small village, but was going slow, no harm or damage done. From Khenifra down to Imilchil, and Auberge Tislit, another recommended overnight stop. No wi fi, 12volt power, but 250Dm per night, including dinner and
Auberge Tislit, home for the night
breakfast, good value. We met some other travellers there, including a couple from Belgium, whom we would meet later on. The little old lady who ran it was a great host, although she couldn't speak english, she looked after us with a terrific Moroccan tangine for dinner, and made sure we had enough tea & coffee to be comfortably bloated.
11th Oct
After a good breakfast, we left the auberge with hugs from the hostess, and a new litre of milk to replace the leaking one I had given her the night before, it was like we were part of her family, a nice feeling. On the way we stopped at an intersection, and some kids came out of nowhere to gather round the bikes. Michael got out the fruit and bread we were carrying for lunch and gave it to them, and they were fighting over it. Sad to see such need for basic food.
11th Oct
After a good breakfast, we left the auberge with hugs from the hostess, and a new litre of milk to replace the leaking one I had given her the night before, it was like we were part of her family, a nice feeling. On the way we stopped at an intersection, and some kids came out of nowhere to gather round the bikes. Michael got out the fruit and bread we were carrying for lunch and gave it to them, and they were fighting over it. Sad to see such need for basic food.
Our road on the other side of the valley, at around 2,700 meters.
The road into Todra Gorge
The road over the moonscape like pass at Tizi-Tirherouzine was spectacular, 2,700 meters high, with sheer drops all around, photos can't capture it. There was some gravel road the way we went, but it wasn't bad. It was spitting rain at the top, and quite cool, so the liners went in the jackets. From there we rode down to Todra gorge, once again, fantastic scenery. We stopped before the gorge, and met a guy called David, travelling around in his Unimog, great set up. A short sharp storm hit, and it bucketed down rain for about ten minutes, then stopped. After the gorge, a fairly short ride to Tinerhir, where we booked into an auberge that had been recommended to us, and it was raining again.
The auberge at Tinehir
Michael and Ruth cooked up the chicken we had been carrying around for the last two days, lots of spices, it was a great meal. There was 15 Polish bikers staying at the same place, and also a couple of guys we had met at the port at Tangier Med when we came over. These guys were more hardcore dirt bike riders, staying off the bitumen where they could. Doing it too tough for me. Ludwig, a guy from Austria that we met at Tangier Med, recommended an auberge in Merzouga we should stay at if we went there. Lyn and I realised we were running out of time in Morocco, so we decided to head off tomorrow, while Michael & Ruth would stay another day and look around the area before moving on.
Green belt of river silt in a brown barren land
12th Oct
I noticed a problem with my bash plate while packing the bikes, so spent some time fixing that before we left. Michael & Ruth had headed off earlier, so Lyn and I left on on our own, felt funny just the two of us again. Stopping at an intersection, two kids around 6 or 7 years old came running out and grabbed the handlebars of my bike, begging for food or money. We had no food with us, and I had no money on me, (Lyn is the treasurer), but they wouldn't let go. Slipping the clutch to scare them off, they nearly pulled the bike over. I had to raise my hand and threaten to hit them to make them back off', and felt really bad riding away. We headed
I noticed a problem with my bash plate while packing the bikes, so spent some time fixing that before we left. Michael & Ruth had headed off earlier, so Lyn and I left on on our own, felt funny just the two of us again. Stopping at an intersection, two kids around 6 or 7 years old came running out and grabbed the handlebars of my bike, begging for food or money. We had no food with us, and I had no money on me, (Lyn is the treasurer), but they wouldn't let go. Slipping the clutch to scare them off, they nearly pulled the bike over. I had to raise my hand and threaten to hit them to make them back off', and felt really bad riding away. We headed
4WD buggy at the servo, these things are registered and allowed on the road here.
east towards Erfoud, through some valleys that were used for agriculture, green belts of river silt washed down by the flooding rains, and bordered on both sides by barren rocky brown gravel. As we got closer to Rissani, the land flattened out and became real desert, and in the distance we could see a sandstorm. Getting closer we were hit by savage crosswinds, and rode leaning the bikes over at an angle to try to stay straight. After about 15 minutes we came through it and fuelled up at a servo, where there were two 4WD buggies fuelling up also. They would never be allowed on the road in Oz. The baffle flew out the back of the bike while I was riding, so I had to go back and get it, a
Lyn riding through the gate to Erfoud
screw had broken off. The bike is really loud without it! We rode past a group of about a dozen wild camels near the road, but it was as we were approaching the sandstorm, we didn't stop for photos. We headed down to Merzouga, and the Kasbah Hotel Panorama that Ludwick had recommended. It sits up on a little knoll, and has great views over the desert. After watching the sunset from the rooftop, we had a meal in the restaurant, typically Moroccan, and it was really tasty. I would definitely recommend it.
13th Oct
Up early (7.00am) to watch the sunrise over the dunes at 7.21, then check out and head west towards the coast.
13th Oct
Up early (7.00am) to watch the sunrise over the dunes at 7.21, then check out and head west towards the coast.
On the edge of the Sahara
Heading west from Merzouga
The road from Merzouga was badly corrugated, so much so that the rear brace on my panniers broke, I jerry rigged it until I could get it welded. We continued on to Alnif, where we stopped at a roadside cafe for lunch. The food just kept coming, there was much more than we could eat, and was really cheap. A couple from Belgium were there, and we chatted to them for a while. We decided to try for Ouarzazate that night, we had been told about a place called Bikers Rest there where we could camp, and they had a workshop I could use to fix my pannier brace. Before Ouarzazate the road goes over the Tiz-n-Tinifift pass, which has to be one the best biking roads in the world,
On top of the world!
just spectacular. We got into town around 7.00 pm, but couldn't find the Bikers Rest, so booked into a cheap hotel for the night, where we could ride the bikes through the garden and park them outside the room. Later we found out that the Bikers Rest is no longer there. Hungry, we wandered around the town until we found a pizza shop in the back blocks, and that was tea.
During our wandering, I had seen a mechanical workshop, and decided to go back in the morning to fix my broken pannier brace.
14th - 15th Oct
With the brace repaired, (cost about $4 AUD), we headed off to Marrakesh. On the way I was looking at
During our wandering, I had seen a mechanical workshop, and decided to go back in the morning to fix my broken pannier brace.
14th - 15th Oct
With the brace repaired, (cost about $4 AUD), we headed off to Marrakesh. On the way I was looking at
Strange cloud formation.
clouds forming ahead of us, and they started getting weird looking. One in particular started off looking like the bullet train, then turned into what you see in the picture. The scenery continued to be amazing, this country has it all, the wow factor never goes away. At lunch time we stopped at a small cafe in a little town at the bottom of another mountain pass, chicken skewers and tangine, superb, won't need tea tonight. We arrived in Marrakesh looking for the campsite recommended to us by Peter from Atlas Overland, Le Relais de Marrakesh, but couldn't find it. Getting ready to give up, a French guy pulled up in his car to help, and knew where it was. My understanding of french
The road down the pass going to Marrakesh
In the Medina in Marrakesh
must be getting better, because we found it, and set up the tent for a couple of days. A trip to the supermarket got some supplies, (but no grog, that section was shut), so we visited the restaurant. There we met Bernie and Miranda, an english couple travelling through in a motorhome, and while talking to them Tom and Leone walked in, the couple we had met at Imilchil. The polish bikers were also camped there, it's a small world for travellers. The next day was spent checking over the bikes, and visiting the Medina with Bernie & Miranda. Lots to see and do there, a million stalls, freshly squeezed orange juice, and the usual street hustlers.
Back on the coast again
16th Oct
We had planned on going to Essaouira after Marrakesh, but Bernie suggested Agadir, as there was better surf, and less wind, so we decided to follow his advise. The road was good, but fairly straight, flat, and boring for a change. Lunch at a roadside cafe was chicken, salad, chips, and 2 drinks, all for 90 Dms, cheap. We arrived at the campsite at Tarhazoute suggested by Bernie just after they had got there, and got a cheap room for the night. The weather was good, nice and warm, so we went down to the point and watched the surfers until dark. The surf was too big for us, and breaking on rocks.
We had planned on going to Essaouira after Marrakesh, but Bernie suggested Agadir, as there was better surf, and less wind, so we decided to follow his advise. The road was good, but fairly straight, flat, and boring for a change. Lunch at a roadside cafe was chicken, salad, chips, and 2 drinks, all for 90 Dms, cheap. We arrived at the campsite at Tarhazoute suggested by Bernie just after they had got there, and got a cheap room for the night. The weather was good, nice and warm, so we went down to the point and watched the surfers until dark. The surf was too big for us, and breaking on rocks.
View from the hotel at Safi
17th Oct
We met Andy & Annie at the campsite while saying goodbye to Bernie & Miranda, then headed north, planning to stay at Essaouira for a couple of days, but when we got there, we found most of the accommodation is inside the Medina, and vehicles are not allowed inside. I wasn't going to leave the bikes parked outside overnight, so, tired of the touts and touristy feel of the place, we kept going to Safi. The road swung away from the coast, and although good, was not very exiting. There mist coming in from the sea dirtied the visors in no time, so we couldn't see very well. We had bought a chicken for lunch at a small town, but it was undercooked, so didn't eat it.
We met Andy & Annie at the campsite while saying goodbye to Bernie & Miranda, then headed north, planning to stay at Essaouira for a couple of days, but when we got there, we found most of the accommodation is inside the Medina, and vehicles are not allowed inside. I wasn't going to leave the bikes parked outside overnight, so, tired of the touts and touristy feel of the place, we kept going to Safi. The road swung away from the coast, and although good, was not very exiting. There mist coming in from the sea dirtied the visors in no time, so we couldn't see very well. We had bought a chicken for lunch at a small town, but it was undercooked, so didn't eat it.
The Coastline north of Safi.
18-19th Oct
We had decided to stay a couple of days just up the coast, as Essaouira had disappointed us so much, so did the short ride up to Oualidia. We looked around for a campsite, but there wasn't any, the advertised one only had rooms at 1200 dms, way out of our budget. Lyn spoke to a guy on the street that had a house to rent, and we bartered him down to 400 dms a night for two nights, winner. It had a washing machine, which we desperately needed, but no wi-fi, bugger, couldn't catch up on the blog. It is a fishing village, and there were guys on mopeds selling fresh fish and oysters, so we bought a dozen fresh oysters, really big and tasty.
We had decided to stay a couple of days just up the coast, as Essaouira had disappointed us so much, so did the short ride up to Oualidia. We looked around for a campsite, but there wasn't any, the advertised one only had rooms at 1200 dms, way out of our budget. Lyn spoke to a guy on the street that had a house to rent, and we bartered him down to 400 dms a night for two nights, winner. It had a washing machine, which we desperately needed, but no wi-fi, bugger, couldn't catch up on the blog. It is a fishing village, and there were guys on mopeds selling fresh fish and oysters, so we bought a dozen fresh oysters, really big and tasty.
Home for a couple of nights
The house was only a few minutes walk to the beach, but it was difficult surf there due to the gap between two headlands, and the lagoon inside, but still a nice spot. We went out for tea one night, fairly cheap, good local seafood, and you could get wine there. There was no where else for miles you could get alcohol. Everybody got around on little mopeds, with pedals, and a small 2 stoke engine, you can buy them in the local supermarkets. I only saw 2 brands, Peugeot and Motobecane.
Home on the beach at Dar Bouazza.
20th-21st Oct
From Oualidia, we rode up to Dar Bouazza, about 30 kms south of Casablanca. Patricia, a lady Lyn had contacted through Workaway, had offered us a place to pitch our tent for a few days. The road up was good, next to the sea, but with a long skinny swamp / waterway between them. After stopping for lunch in Jadida, we headed out the wrong way (missed a turn), then when we found the right road, the police diverted us down some back alleys for some reason, and it became the world's longest detour. It went for miles
From Oualidia, we rode up to Dar Bouazza, about 30 kms south of Casablanca. Patricia, a lady Lyn had contacted through Workaway, had offered us a place to pitch our tent for a few days. The road up was good, next to the sea, but with a long skinny swamp / waterway between them. After stopping for lunch in Jadida, we headed out the wrong way (missed a turn), then when we found the right road, the police diverted us down some back alleys for some reason, and it became the world's longest detour. It went for miles
Me, Iydi, Phillipe, Patricia, Lyn, and Steve
through peoples back yards, through fences, across vacant blocks, you name it, it went there. We were laughing so hard at how weird it was, we nearly had to stop. We arrived without any more excitement, and were made feel at home straight away. There was a young couple from Oz there staying under the Workaway plan, Steve and Iydi from Sydney. It was a great spot, overlooking the sea, but the next day a mist came in and greyed everything out, at times you couldn't see the water. Unfortunately it also wet everything, so we had to keep the tent closed. It gave me a chance to fix Lyn's boot, the sole was coming off, thanks for the glue, and your hospitality, Patricia.
The hotel room in Assilah.
22nd Oct
Lyns birthday, and we woke with the mist still there, it didn't lift until we left, so the tent got put away still damp. We got away late, as we do, and managed to get around Casablanca and Rabat without too many hassles, and followed the coast road part of the way. Somehow we ended up on the motorway, and had to pay some tolls, good road, but boring. We wanted to get as close as we could to Tangier Med, as we were booked on the ferry the next day, but stay out out of Tangier, as it was dearer. We got into Assilah before dark, and checked out a few hotels before we found one in our budget range. We went out and had a nice
Lyns birthday, and we woke with the mist still there, it didn't lift until we left, so the tent got put away still damp. We got away late, as we do, and managed to get around Casablanca and Rabat without too many hassles, and followed the coast road part of the way. Somehow we ended up on the motorway, and had to pay some tolls, good road, but boring. We wanted to get as close as we could to Tangier Med, as we were booked on the ferry the next day, but stay out out of Tangier, as it was dearer. We got into Assilah before dark, and checked out a few hotels before we found one in our budget range. We went out and had a nice
Looking down on the bikes from the room
seafood meal and bottle of wine for tea to celebrate Lyn's birthday, a good night. The bikes were covered up and parked in the street below the hotel room, and we were assured they would be safe, as there would be a guard sleeping there all night. They didn't tell me there would be an extra charge for that though......
We had an early night, as we had to catch the 11.00 am ferry at Tangier Med the next morning, and that was still 100 kms away. We needed to be there by 10.00 am. to clear the bikes out through customs, so couldn't be late.
We had an early night, as we had to catch the 11.00 am ferry at Tangier Med the next morning, and that was still 100 kms away. We needed to be there by 10.00 am. to clear the bikes out through customs, so couldn't be late.
23rd Oct.
Up early to pack, and discovered the leather bag we keep the bike covers in has gone missing during the night. The "guard" shrugged his shoulders when questioned, didn't know anything about it...... asleep or involved, still don't know which. Pissed off, but couldn't spend any time doing anything about it. We got lost going to Tangier Med, and ended up going through Tangier, but still just made the ferry. My fuel light was on, and I had wanted to fuel up in Morocco, as the fuel is cheaper, but we just didn't have time. As we hadn't had anything to eat or drink, the plan was to eat on the ferry, but once aboard we found they only took Euro, and we had Dirmah! We scraped enough coins together for a cup of tea and a muffin. The wi-fi wasn't working, but then it rarely is on the ferries... The crossing was smooth, and so was the clearance back into Spain. Morocco had been a pleasant surprise, totally different to what we had expected, with the stunning scenery, pleasant people, cheap living, and good weather, we both thoroughly enjoyed it. We will be back.....
Up early to pack, and discovered the leather bag we keep the bike covers in has gone missing during the night. The "guard" shrugged his shoulders when questioned, didn't know anything about it...... asleep or involved, still don't know which. Pissed off, but couldn't spend any time doing anything about it. We got lost going to Tangier Med, and ended up going through Tangier, but still just made the ferry. My fuel light was on, and I had wanted to fuel up in Morocco, as the fuel is cheaper, but we just didn't have time. As we hadn't had anything to eat or drink, the plan was to eat on the ferry, but once aboard we found they only took Euro, and we had Dirmah! We scraped enough coins together for a cup of tea and a muffin. The wi-fi wasn't working, but then it rarely is on the ferries... The crossing was smooth, and so was the clearance back into Spain. Morocco had been a pleasant surprise, totally different to what we had expected, with the stunning scenery, pleasant people, cheap living, and good weather, we both thoroughly enjoyed it. We will be back.....
