Waiting at the border, freezing cold.......
24th August
Weather was a bit better today, headed up towards Ulan Ude again, intending to take a shortcut across to the main road to Chita, but that meant going on a ferry, and when we got there they had just knocked off for lunch, and we would have had to sit around for an hour and a half, so gave it a miss and went the long way round. Lots of crazy roadworks, there are cars going everywhere through the worksite, never seen anything like it. Bit scary when you hit deep loose gravel at speed, but we got through it all right. Made it to Petrovsk-Zabaykalskiy, and found a guest house for the night, not flash, but OK for the night, secure parking for the bikes cost an extra 200 roubles for the night, (about $4 aud).
Weather was a bit better today, headed up towards Ulan Ude again, intending to take a shortcut across to the main road to Chita, but that meant going on a ferry, and when we got there they had just knocked off for lunch, and we would have had to sit around for an hour and a half, so gave it a miss and went the long way round. Lots of crazy roadworks, there are cars going everywhere through the worksite, never seen anything like it. Bit scary when you hit deep loose gravel at speed, but we got through it all right. Made it to Petrovsk-Zabaykalskiy, and found a guest house for the night, not flash, but OK for the night, secure parking for the bikes cost an extra 200 roubles for the night, (about $4 aud).
25
Still more roadworks on the way to Chita, it will be good when they are finished. Some of the road is so new they haven’t even had time to install the potholes yet! Lyn was still suffering from the cold she had picked up in Mongolia, so she got some drugs from a chemist in small town, came out smiling. We booked into a hotel on the Chita outskirts, quite nice but we did a ride through town looking for one before that. Cold, but sunny weather, no rain.
Still more roadworks on the way to Chita, it will be good when they are finished. Some of the road is so new they haven’t even had time to install the potholes yet! Lyn was still suffering from the cold she had picked up in Mongolia, so she got some drugs from a chemist in small town, came out smiling. We booked into a hotel on the Chita outskirts, quite nice but we did a ride through town looking for one before that. Cold, but sunny weather, no rain.
26
Nice weather, but cold, made good time all day until my chain joining link disappeared, and the chain fell onto the road. Lyn was following me, picked it up, and I dodged a joining link to get going again. Not happy with it, but it held. Couldn’t get a room at the next town, we were about $1 aud short on cash, and they don’t take credit cards, so after a ride down 10 kms of dirt road to the main town, a visit to both banks, which were both closed due to it being about 7.00pm, and no ATM, the bitch at the hotel wouldn’t give us a discount and a room, so we rode on and ended up wild camping down a track that led to a little creek. Dinner was one slice of cheese each, and half a sausage to share between us. It was one of the coldest nights either of us had ever had, not much sleep, even in the tent, our sleeping bags, wearing thermals, and full riding suits with all the liners in them, we still could not stop shivering. In the morning there was ice on the bikes and grass, still we are in Siberia I suppose, must be hell in winter!
Nice weather, but cold, made good time all day until my chain joining link disappeared, and the chain fell onto the road. Lyn was following me, picked it up, and I dodged a joining link to get going again. Not happy with it, but it held. Couldn’t get a room at the next town, we were about $1 aud short on cash, and they don’t take credit cards, so after a ride down 10 kms of dirt road to the main town, a visit to both banks, which were both closed due to it being about 7.00pm, and no ATM, the bitch at the hotel wouldn’t give us a discount and a room, so we rode on and ended up wild camping down a track that led to a little creek. Dinner was one slice of cheese each, and half a sausage to share between us. It was one of the coldest nights either of us had ever had, not much sleep, even in the tent, our sleeping bags, wearing thermals, and full riding suits with all the liners in them, we still could not stop shivering. In the morning there was ice on the bikes and grass, still we are in Siberia I suppose, must be hell in winter!
Working on the chain beside the road
Breaking camp in the morning, after the coldest night in the world!
27
A fairly short day, called in to Mogocha, about 10 kms off the highway, where there is a bike group called the Iron Angels, supposedly very helpful to bikers, and I wanted to find out where I could get another chain. We found the clubhouse, but there was no-one there, and it was all locked up, so I tried a few car repair shops hoping someone could point me in the right direction, but they said I would have to go to Blagoveshchensk, a mere 1,000 kms away, to the nearest bike shop. Not much choice but to carry on, and if the link gave way to hopefully get the bike on a truck to Blago. Along the way there is a memorial to a biker that was killed a few years ago, but the writing is all in Russian, and I can’t find anything about it on google, so don’t know the details. With the sky darkening and looking like it was going to pour down, we made it to Yeofey Pavlovich, where there was a roadside hotel and cafe, so we booked in there for an early night. The rooms are for 12 hours, and any extra was 50% of the room rate, so it started getting expensive if you stayed longer than 12 hours. The showers were downstairs, and an extra 100 roubles each, (about $2 aud). It was just before 5.00pm when we wanted to book in, and there was no way we were getting up at 4.00 am to get out of the room by 5.00am, so we told the woman we would sit in the cafe until 8.00 pm, then move into the room. She said OK, so we unloaded everything into the cafe, but she relented after an hour, and said we could go to the room. It started raining just after we got the bikes unpacked and got inside. We were both stuffed, and were asleep before 9.30, must be a record. We slept very well, nice and warm in a soft bed.
A fairly short day, called in to Mogocha, about 10 kms off the highway, where there is a bike group called the Iron Angels, supposedly very helpful to bikers, and I wanted to find out where I could get another chain. We found the clubhouse, but there was no-one there, and it was all locked up, so I tried a few car repair shops hoping someone could point me in the right direction, but they said I would have to go to Blagoveshchensk, a mere 1,000 kms away, to the nearest bike shop. Not much choice but to carry on, and if the link gave way to hopefully get the bike on a truck to Blago. Along the way there is a memorial to a biker that was killed a few years ago, but the writing is all in Russian, and I can’t find anything about it on google, so don’t know the details. With the sky darkening and looking like it was going to pour down, we made it to Yeofey Pavlovich, where there was a roadside hotel and cafe, so we booked in there for an early night. The rooms are for 12 hours, and any extra was 50% of the room rate, so it started getting expensive if you stayed longer than 12 hours. The showers were downstairs, and an extra 100 roubles each, (about $2 aud). It was just before 5.00pm when we wanted to book in, and there was no way we were getting up at 4.00 am to get out of the room by 5.00am, so we told the woman we would sit in the cafe until 8.00 pm, then move into the room. She said OK, so we unloaded everything into the cafe, but she relented after an hour, and said we could go to the room. It started raining just after we got the bikes unpacked and got inside. We were both stuffed, and were asleep before 9.30, must be a record. We slept very well, nice and warm in a soft bed.
The memorial to the biker who was killed there in 2010
The hotel we stayed in that charged for 12 hours. It is a bit flasher than some of them, and definitely warmer than camping!
28
A clear blue sky this morning, but bloody freezing! Ice on the bikes again, frozen from last nights rain, but the sun was doing its best to put some heat into everything. Once we got going we really felt the cold air, even with the heated hand grips our hands were cool, and everything else was cold! I need a heated vest, Lyn had hers on high and was just warm enough. We came to the junction where the road north to Yakutsk and the road of bones turns off, so stopped for a photo. Only 3,000kms to Magadan, glad we decided on Vladivostok. The chain was still holding, so we pushed on to Sivaki, another roadside hotel and cafe, where we booked in for the night. Not a bad days ride, about 450 kms, the last 150 kms or so were a little warmer. The roads are mostly good, but some sections have potholes big enough to smash a rim, so you can’t look around much while you are riding. Even good long smooth sections have some hidden in there, just to stop you going to sleep.
A clear blue sky this morning, but bloody freezing! Ice on the bikes again, frozen from last nights rain, but the sun was doing its best to put some heat into everything. Once we got going we really felt the cold air, even with the heated hand grips our hands were cool, and everything else was cold! I need a heated vest, Lyn had hers on high and was just warm enough. We came to the junction where the road north to Yakutsk and the road of bones turns off, so stopped for a photo. Only 3,000kms to Magadan, glad we decided on Vladivostok. The chain was still holding, so we pushed on to Sivaki, another roadside hotel and cafe, where we booked in for the night. Not a bad days ride, about 450 kms, the last 150 kms or so were a little warmer. The roads are mostly good, but some sections have potholes big enough to smash a rim, so you can’t look around much while you are riding. Even good long smooth sections have some hidden in there, just to stop you going to sleep.
Khabarovsk straight ahead, Yakutsk and Magadan off to the right, to the start of the Road of Bones
29-30
Good weather and clear skies for the ride to Blagoveshchensk, where we booked a room for 2 nights. Vlad, the manager spoke good english, and helped me out by sourcing a chain and joining link for me, then gave me a ride to the shop to pick it up, great service, thanks Vlad. Next morning when we woke up it was raining, but had to sort out the chain problem, and Sergei, the maintenance manager, got my broken pannier rack bracket welded for me. Ramon, one of the other maintenance guys gave me a hand to fit the new chain, so all sorted.
Good weather and clear skies for the ride to Blagoveshchensk, where we booked a room for 2 nights. Vlad, the manager spoke good english, and helped me out by sourcing a chain and joining link for me, then gave me a ride to the shop to pick it up, great service, thanks Vlad. Next morning when we woke up it was raining, but had to sort out the chain problem, and Sergei, the maintenance manager, got my broken pannier rack bracket welded for me. Ramon, one of the other maintenance guys gave me a hand to fit the new chain, so all sorted.
Lyn's bike beside the road, typical section of road through some hills
Inside one of the roadside cafes, a lunch stop
Lagman, staple diet crossing Russia, warm, cheap, and filling
Sunset behind us on the road to Birobidzhan
Ramon, who gave me a hand with my chain, in the hotel backyard
Russian built 4x4 van, these things are everywhere in Russia, the Stans, and Mongolia. They seem to handle the shitty roads better than anything else, and give a better ride across corrugations as well.
31
Left late, still raining, and went for a ride to the city to look across the river at China. There is a ferry that crosses, but it is not a large crossing, and hard to find unless you can read Russian. We did find Victory Park, with a monument and an arch, which we parked the bikes in front of and took some photos. While we were there, a bus load of Chinese tourists wondered past, and all wanted their photo taken with us, I didn’t think we would ever get out of there! Headed off from there towards Khabarovsk, the GPS taking us through some dodgy shortcuts, but we ended up on the right road. A lagman for lunch, common meal here, its like a bowl of meat and vegetable stew in a soup, very nice, especially on a cold wet day. Luckily the further away from Blago we got, the better he weather got, and after 200 kms we were in sunshine.
Left late, still raining, and went for a ride to the city to look across the river at China. There is a ferry that crosses, but it is not a large crossing, and hard to find unless you can read Russian. We did find Victory Park, with a monument and an arch, which we parked the bikes in front of and took some photos. While we were there, a bus load of Chinese tourists wondered past, and all wanted their photo taken with us, I didn’t think we would ever get out of there! Headed off from there towards Khabarovsk, the GPS taking us through some dodgy shortcuts, but we ended up on the right road. A lagman for lunch, common meal here, its like a bowl of meat and vegetable stew in a soup, very nice, especially on a cold wet day. Luckily the further away from Blago we got, the better he weather got, and after 200 kms we were in sunshine.
Lyn near Victory Park, thats the Chinese city of Heihe across the river, which is the border.
1st-3rd September
Drizzle on and off most of the day, arrived at Khabarosvk after lunch, after the 200 or so kilometres from Birobidzhan, and found the Kakadu hostel we had booked into without too much trouble. A nice room to ourselves for a reasonable price. We decided to stay here 3 nights, as we had plenty of time to get to Vladivostok, and accommodation there is expensive and scarce. Had a look around, caught up on some washing, and did a couple of little things on the bikes. Good to relax for a day or so. It drizzled the first day, and the second day the sun came out for a while.
Drizzle on and off most of the day, arrived at Khabarosvk after lunch, after the 200 or so kilometres from Birobidzhan, and found the Kakadu hostel we had booked into without too much trouble. A nice room to ourselves for a reasonable price. We decided to stay here 3 nights, as we had plenty of time to get to Vladivostok, and accommodation there is expensive and scarce. Had a look around, caught up on some washing, and did a couple of little things on the bikes. Good to relax for a day or so. It drizzled the first day, and the second day the sun came out for a while.
This guy was heading to Irkutsk, from Vladivostok, but did a u turn and came back when he saw us in a parking area beside the road. He only spoke Russian, so conversation was limited, but it was still good to talk to him.
Our home in Khabarovsk for a few days, would recommend it
Fish for sale at the Khabarovsk Markets
4
We left Khabarovsk in light drizzle, expecting it to continue all the way to Vladivostok, as the weather forecast was heavy rain for the next few days, but as we got further south it lightened up, and was mostly just cloudy but dry. With the weather holding, we wanted to get as close to Vlad as we could before it started raining again, so we pushed on until just before dark on pretty good roads. We passed and got passed by a couple of sports bikes along the way, and at one fuel stop they were at the same servo, so we had a chat with them. They were from St Petersburg, also on their way to Vladivostok. They would continue on, but we didn’t want to travel at night, and our hotel booking wasn’t until tomorrow night, so said we would stay nearby somewhere. They told us of a hotel nearby, but we couldn’t find it, and after trying another with no luck, found one further down the road. I went in and checked out the room and the rate, all good, so went out to tell Lyn, and found another couple on a bike talking to her. They said, “You must come with us and stay at our friends house, don’t stay here, come with us and stay and party”. Our friends on the sports bikes had called ahead, and spoken to someone who knew someone in the town we were in, and they had come looking for us! How could we refuse someone who had gone to that trouble, so we declined the hotel and followed our new friends about 20 kms down the road, (via a supermarket where we bought some vodka), where there were people waiting for us. We were shown a room to sleep in, food was cooked, and drinks bought out, they even rang a friend who was studying english at university as an interpreter. Great people, and a great night, too much to drink and too many laughs.
We left Khabarovsk in light drizzle, expecting it to continue all the way to Vladivostok, as the weather forecast was heavy rain for the next few days, but as we got further south it lightened up, and was mostly just cloudy but dry. With the weather holding, we wanted to get as close to Vlad as we could before it started raining again, so we pushed on until just before dark on pretty good roads. We passed and got passed by a couple of sports bikes along the way, and at one fuel stop they were at the same servo, so we had a chat with them. They were from St Petersburg, also on their way to Vladivostok. They would continue on, but we didn’t want to travel at night, and our hotel booking wasn’t until tomorrow night, so said we would stay nearby somewhere. They told us of a hotel nearby, but we couldn’t find it, and after trying another with no luck, found one further down the road. I went in and checked out the room and the rate, all good, so went out to tell Lyn, and found another couple on a bike talking to her. They said, “You must come with us and stay at our friends house, don’t stay here, come with us and stay and party”. Our friends on the sports bikes had called ahead, and spoken to someone who knew someone in the town we were in, and they had come looking for us! How could we refuse someone who had gone to that trouble, so we declined the hotel and followed our new friends about 20 kms down the road, (via a supermarket where we bought some vodka), where there were people waiting for us. We were shown a room to sleep in, food was cooked, and drinks bought out, they even rang a friend who was studying english at university as an interpreter. Great people, and a great night, too much to drink and too many laughs.
This is the gang that hijacked us, and made us stay with them. Glad they did!!!
5
A slow start, and the guy whose house it was had a low pressure cleaner, perfect for cleaning out the radiators, so I did the bikes before we left. From there it was only about 170 kms to Vladivostok, so we headed off in light rain, and made it to the hotel around 2.00pm. The GPS got us close, and we found it from the picture on the net. It would have been a great hotel in its day, but it was a bit aged by now. Still it had a good view out over the bay, wifi, and was walking distance to the city, so it would do. We weren’t sure how long we would be here, would find out more over the next few days.
A slow start, and the guy whose house it was had a low pressure cleaner, perfect for cleaning out the radiators, so I did the bikes before we left. From there it was only about 170 kms to Vladivostok, so we headed off in light rain, and made it to the hotel around 2.00pm. The GPS got us close, and we found it from the picture on the net. It would have been a great hotel in its day, but it was a bit aged by now. Still it had a good view out over the bay, wifi, and was walking distance to the city, so it would do. We weren’t sure how long we would be here, would find out more over the next few days.
6-14
Over the next few days we met some other travellers some who had done the road of bones and the BAM, then flown down to Vladi, and others who had come the same way as us, and ridden to Vladivostok. It was good to hear some aussie voices again. As usual, we got together for a few meals, laughed a lot, and drank too much, but a good time was had by all. Most of them were shipping their bikes either back to Australia, or the states, and all were using the same shipping agent, Yuri from Links Ltd. After ringing Yuri on our arrival, he said we could drop off the bikes the next day, so that made it easier to plan our departure. A visit to Yuri’s office to sort out the paperwork, then ride the bikes to his warehouse via the car wash, where they were cleaned ready for shipment. We had an interview for our US visa booked for the 8th and that went well, picked up our passports with a 5 year visa inside after just 3 days and that was over a weekend! Without the bikes, we could get an apartment with a kitchen and washing machine, (and no parking) for less than we were paying at the hotel, so made the change on saturday. Much more room, and we could catch up on the washing. It turns out the internet was rubbish, there is always something isn’t there! A trip to the chinese markets was worthwhile, you can buy anything from an outboard motor to a pair of sox, huge place. We thought we were getting the hang of the busses, but managed to catch the wrong one leaving the markets and ended up miles away, the only people on the bus when the driver turned the engine off! Turns out it was the right bus, just going the wrong way….. The weather was better for not riding, as there was rain most days. A message came through from Chris Eden, a kiwi we met in Ulan Bataar when we were there, he had arrived in Vlad and seen on the net we were there, so caught up with him for a meal and a beer as well. We had decided to go to China for a look around as it is right next door, so organised to get the visas from the consulate here. They are only available Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, so we headed off by bus on monday to apply. We wanted a tourist visa, but after lining up and going in, found out they are only available in Khabarovsk, not here, so settled for a 10 day transit visa. Where are your airline tickets, they said? We haven’t booked yet, because we don’t know when we can get our visa……. We went back wednesday with our tickets, and left our paperwork there, come back at 4.30pm they said. Arriving back at 4.30pm, we went to pay, sorry, no credit cards, cash only, despite the fact that the website says you can use Visa! Lyn did a mad dash to the nearest ATM, (the only one we have come across that doesn’t have an english translation screen!), and we ended up getting sorted at about 5.30pm. Our last night in Vlad was at a hotel near the station, as we were catching the train out to the airport, which is 44 kms away. A helpful security guy at the station gave us a hand to get the train tickets on the way home, as the woman selling tickets had no idea what we were saying or what we wanted, so that may save some time in the morning.
Over the next few days we met some other travellers some who had done the road of bones and the BAM, then flown down to Vladi, and others who had come the same way as us, and ridden to Vladivostok. It was good to hear some aussie voices again. As usual, we got together for a few meals, laughed a lot, and drank too much, but a good time was had by all. Most of them were shipping their bikes either back to Australia, or the states, and all were using the same shipping agent, Yuri from Links Ltd. After ringing Yuri on our arrival, he said we could drop off the bikes the next day, so that made it easier to plan our departure. A visit to Yuri’s office to sort out the paperwork, then ride the bikes to his warehouse via the car wash, where they were cleaned ready for shipment. We had an interview for our US visa booked for the 8th and that went well, picked up our passports with a 5 year visa inside after just 3 days and that was over a weekend! Without the bikes, we could get an apartment with a kitchen and washing machine, (and no parking) for less than we were paying at the hotel, so made the change on saturday. Much more room, and we could catch up on the washing. It turns out the internet was rubbish, there is always something isn’t there! A trip to the chinese markets was worthwhile, you can buy anything from an outboard motor to a pair of sox, huge place. We thought we were getting the hang of the busses, but managed to catch the wrong one leaving the markets and ended up miles away, the only people on the bus when the driver turned the engine off! Turns out it was the right bus, just going the wrong way….. The weather was better for not riding, as there was rain most days. A message came through from Chris Eden, a kiwi we met in Ulan Bataar when we were there, he had arrived in Vlad and seen on the net we were there, so caught up with him for a meal and a beer as well. We had decided to go to China for a look around as it is right next door, so organised to get the visas from the consulate here. They are only available Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, so we headed off by bus on monday to apply. We wanted a tourist visa, but after lining up and going in, found out they are only available in Khabarovsk, not here, so settled for a 10 day transit visa. Where are your airline tickets, they said? We haven’t booked yet, because we don’t know when we can get our visa……. We went back wednesday with our tickets, and left our paperwork there, come back at 4.30pm they said. Arriving back at 4.30pm, we went to pay, sorry, no credit cards, cash only, despite the fact that the website says you can use Visa! Lyn did a mad dash to the nearest ATM, (the only one we have come across that doesn’t have an english translation screen!), and we ended up getting sorted at about 5.30pm. Our last night in Vlad was at a hotel near the station, as we were catching the train out to the airport, which is 44 kms away. A helpful security guy at the station gave us a hand to get the train tickets on the way home, as the woman selling tickets had no idea what we were saying or what we wanted, so that may save some time in the morning.
Vladivostok, where the fox hat?
Dinner (and drinks) with other travellers in Vlad, another good night....
This retired Russian submarine is on display in a park near the city centre. For a small fee you can go inside
The view out over the bay from our first hotel room
This bridge is a landmark in the city, crossing over the harbour.
Yet another party picture of travelling bikers in Vlad
While writing this, on our last night in this country, I am trying to summarise Russia, and struggling a bit. It has been good, frustrating, disappointing, funny, with great scenery, and good and bad weather. For a country of this size, you would expect it to have everything, and I think it has. The people have been mainly friendly and helpful once approached, but they do not approach and offer assistance unless asked. There have also been some people that have just been rude and unhelpful, but they have been in the minority. It has been a different experience, but well worth the trip. Would I come back, probably not, but only because there is so much more of the world to see. It is one of those countries that some people love, and others hate, depending on your experiences there. We have had both highs, and then lows, like losing our friend Jeff in Moscow, that will make it unforgettable. This part of our trip was for you Jeff, RIP mate…….
