Looking at the coastline of Italy
Outside the Casino in Monte Carlo
28th April
A fairly late start, but under a blue sky, winner! We headed up the coast through Monaco, and took the compulsory picture in front of the casino under the watchful eye of the sour faced dude that tries to hunt away all the scuzzbuckets that want to park in front of his casino. There is some serious money here, it is the second smallest country in the world, behind the Vatican City, is the most densely populated, and the richest on a per capita basis. We fuelled the bikes up,
A fairly late start, but under a blue sky, winner! We headed up the coast through Monaco, and took the compulsory picture in front of the casino under the watchful eye of the sour faced dude that tries to hunt away all the scuzzbuckets that want to park in front of his casino. There is some serious money here, it is the second smallest country in the world, behind the Vatican City, is the most densely populated, and the richest on a per capita basis. We fuelled the bikes up,
Looking back along the coast towards Monaco
but should have done that in France, it was cheaper there. Here it was 1.65 Euro a litre, about 2.30 AUD. As soon as we crossed the border into Italy, the change in atmosphere and appearance was obvious. Things looked run down and neglected, the grass needed mowing. We stopped at a small town on the coast for lunch, really good and cheap. We followed the coast to Albenga, then inland to Ceva. Now it was after 5.00pm, so we got told about a reasonable B&B just out of town, so we ended up there for the night.
Snow covered mountains in the distance
29th
Really nice breakfast at the B&B, then we headed east under light grey cloud, really cold riding. Beautiful roads up to Alba, then Asti, winding through the mountains on sweeping wide roads, with no traffic, and the odd hairpin thrown in for good measure. Stopped for a coffee and fuel in Piacienza, then along a busier road to Palma, where we booked into a hostel for the night. We got a 5 bed dorm with ensuite to ourselves, happy with that. The storm that had been threatening for the last hour hit just after we checked in, so good timing. There was a shopping centre just across the road, so Lyn got an italian sim card, good for a month, with 2 gig of data, for 25 euro, so should last us for the time we are in Italy. A walk down the road to a little restaurant for dinner topped off a really good days ride. We are getting back into the 2 meals a day habit, seems to suit us when we are travelling.
Really nice breakfast at the B&B, then we headed east under light grey cloud, really cold riding. Beautiful roads up to Alba, then Asti, winding through the mountains on sweeping wide roads, with no traffic, and the odd hairpin thrown in for good measure. Stopped for a coffee and fuel in Piacienza, then along a busier road to Palma, where we booked into a hostel for the night. We got a 5 bed dorm with ensuite to ourselves, happy with that. The storm that had been threatening for the last hour hit just after we checked in, so good timing. There was a shopping centre just across the road, so Lyn got an italian sim card, good for a month, with 2 gig of data, for 25 euro, so should last us for the time we are in Italy. A walk down the road to a little restaurant for dinner topped off a really good days ride. We are getting back into the 2 meals a day habit, seems to suit us when we are travelling.
Lyn in Palma
30th
We planned not to go too far today, so went back into Palma for a look around before we left. Quite a nice town, with big squares and churches. After lunch we headed off towards Reggio Nellemilia on a busy road, single lane each way, quite slow moving, when the car in front of Lyn slowed unexpectedly, and she didn't see it happening..... Bang, the next thing I saw was the bike on its side blocking both lanes, and Lyn rolling along the road. She wasn't hurt, but the guy in the black VW
We planned not to go too far today, so went back into Palma for a look around before we left. Quite a nice town, with big squares and churches. After lunch we headed off towards Reggio Nellemilia on a busy road, single lane each way, quite slow moving, when the car in front of Lyn slowed unexpectedly, and she didn't see it happening..... Bang, the next thing I saw was the bike on its side blocking both lanes, and Lyn rolling along the road. She wasn't hurt, but the guy in the black VW
Lyn with the coppers at the accident site
wasn't a happy camper. Some small dents, scratches, and a broken taillight for him, broken windscreen, tank cowl, indicator, and scratches for the bike. He spoke no english, but some negotiation took place, a figure agreed to cover his damage, and he and Lyn were off to the ATM to settle things. We really didn't want the cops involved, as our green card needed renewing, so I breathed a sigh of relief and set about fixing things so Lyn could ride off when she got back. The next thing I know there are 2 coppers standing over me, looking
Tower in Lucca
very stern! Someone had called them, because they knew what happened. I explained the outcome, and that we and the driver were happy with the result, no no further action needed, and they relaxed and started smiling. We talked about our trip, and were soon laughing and joking. From there we headed to the next town for a cup of tea and relax, then off to Lucca, our destination for the day. Once we started heading south, the traffic thinned out, and we climbed up into the hills. It was good riding, good road, and great scenery, and
Eilidh, Vincenzo, and Lyn at the B&B.
we even managed to dodge the rain that was hanging around. Arrived at Lucca around 7.30, but all the hotels were out of our budget, until we found one out of town a bit. Nice room, and the managers turned out to be great people. They told us of a really good restaurant just down the road, so a nice feed, then off to bed for an early night.
1st-2nd May
After a good breakfast at the hotel, Pisa was our next destination, (where we had the world's biggest pizza for lunch), on our way to meeting up with Fernando,
1st-2nd May
After a good breakfast at the hotel, Pisa was our next destination, (where we had the world's biggest pizza for lunch), on our way to meeting up with Fernando,
Fernando, BBQ, and I at Fernando's place.
a guy we had contacted on the HU site. He had kindly offered us a bed for a couple of nights, at his place in Rosignano Marittimo, just south of Livorno. Fernando is from Argentina, and he put on a bbq the way it is done back in Argentina, and it was magnificent, although there was way too much food for us to eat in one night, even with the help of his neighbour and friends. Once again there was too much wine involved......... The next day Fernando took us to a bike shop he knew, where the owner helped us out with an indicator lens for Lyn's
With Fernando and friends
bike, and on the way there my clutch cable snapped, so I fitted my spare while we were there. From there, we rode up to Voltera in the mountains for lunch, really good roads and scenery. Then on down to Livorno, where there was a bike and car show happening, and then back to the marina near home for a drink overlooking the water. From there to the house for a home cooked meal, the perfect way to top off a terrific day. Thanks for your kindness and hospitality, Fernando!
When you know you have had too many wines!!!
3rd-7th
We had booked into a B&B in Collemontanino, about 40 kms away, for a few days, so a short ride through top twisty roads in fairly warm weather got us to meet our hosts, Michael and Julie. Julie is english, and Michael worked in england for years, so communication was not a problem. (It sometimes is a pain). A nice comfortable room, and time to catch up on washing, bike maintenance, and glue up some broken plastic bits on Lyn's bike, just what we needed.
We had booked into a B&B in Collemontanino, about 40 kms away, for a few days, so a short ride through top twisty roads in fairly warm weather got us to meet our hosts, Michael and Julie. Julie is english, and Michael worked in england for years, so communication was not a problem. (It sometimes is a pain). A nice comfortable room, and time to catch up on washing, bike maintenance, and glue up some broken plastic bits on Lyn's bike, just what we needed.
The obligatory tourist shot.
Pisa was only a short ride away, so we did the tourist things for one day, and managed to get home with copping only a few drops of rain.
The countryside around Tuscany is really pretty at this time of the year, with all the trees coming out with new leaves, I didn't know there were that many shades of green. I had taken the panniers off the bikes, they were so different to ride without the weight, really nice. We spent another day in Florence, again only a short ride away, and again played tourist. Checked out the Da Vinci museum, with models of his inventions, he was quite a gifted dude. There is a bridge there crossing the river that has shops along it, and they are all jewellery shops. The Pontivechio has been there for centuries, originally built in the roman times. Makes our history look pretty tame! There were some windmills just near the guest house, so we took a ride up a dirt service road to them, bloody hell they are big when you right next them. Scary standing under them, and hearing the noise the blades make as they go past. Dinner on the last night of our stay was with Michael and Julie at the local pizza restaurant, only a few minutes walk away from the room. Definitely one of the nicest pizzas I have ever had.
The countryside around Tuscany is really pretty at this time of the year, with all the trees coming out with new leaves, I didn't know there were that many shades of green. I had taken the panniers off the bikes, they were so different to ride without the weight, really nice. We spent another day in Florence, again only a short ride away, and again played tourist. Checked out the Da Vinci museum, with models of his inventions, he was quite a gifted dude. There is a bridge there crossing the river that has shops along it, and they are all jewellery shops. The Pontivechio has been there for centuries, originally built in the roman times. Makes our history look pretty tame! There were some windmills just near the guest house, so we took a ride up a dirt service road to them, bloody hell they are big when you right next them. Scary standing under them, and hearing the noise the blades make as they go past. Dinner on the last night of our stay was with Michael and Julie at the local pizza restaurant, only a few minutes walk away from the room. Definitely one of the nicest pizzas I have ever had.
Jewllery shop on the bridge
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With Michael and Julie
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Impressive building in Rome
8th - 10th May
As usual, a late start, heading towards Rome through the back roads, good weather, and hardly any traffic. It was Lyn's turn to snap a clutch cable, so we pulled up at a small village so I could replace it, and Lyn hit the supermarket for some lunch goodies. We pulled up at the top of a range with a spectacular view, and ate fresh bread, tomato, cheese, and ham in the middle of a farmers paddock, one of those special things that you don't do at home. Down to the coast on some more great
As usual, a late start, heading towards Rome through the back roads, good weather, and hardly any traffic. It was Lyn's turn to snap a clutch cable, so we pulled up at a small village so I could replace it, and Lyn hit the supermarket for some lunch goodies. We pulled up at the top of a range with a spectacular view, and ate fresh bread, tomato, cheese, and ham in the middle of a farmers paddock, one of those special things that you don't do at home. Down to the coast on some more great
Me at the Pope's joint
roads, it was getting warmer now, and as we were tired we pulled up at a beach and had a power nap on the sand. We had planned on stopping around here for the night, but kept going towards Rome, and got room just north of the city at around 8.30 pm. We were tired and didn't want to go out again, so dinner was the same as lunch. We did the tourist thing again the next day, colosseum, sistine chapel, etc, then a train back home with a pizza for an early night. We also visited the Trevi fountain, but it was under repair, disappointing. Rome is just another city to me, (but an old one), so we headed off to Naples the next day. Stopping at a little beachside village for a cuppa, we spotted 4 Harley riders there, and gave the usual cursory nod to other riders, as you do. From there on to Naples, and the hotel we had booked into.
Some of the ruins of Pompei
11th
What a shit day! It started off well, with nice weather, and a train trip to Pompeii, where we spent 5 hours walking around the ruins, very impressive. I didn't realise it was so big, covers over 100 acres. On the train back to Naples we met the 4 Harley riders we had seen the previous day on the ride down, and had a good talk to them. Then, after visiting the museum, we got robbed! Walking down the street, this little shit grabbed the heavy gold chain from Lyns neck, and bag, and was off on the back of his
What a shit day! It started off well, with nice weather, and a train trip to Pompeii, where we spent 5 hours walking around the ruins, very impressive. I didn't realise it was so big, covers over 100 acres. On the train back to Naples we met the 4 Harley riders we had seen the previous day on the ride down, and had a good talk to them. Then, after visiting the museum, we got robbed! Walking down the street, this little shit grabbed the heavy gold chain from Lyns neck, and bag, and was off on the back of his
Some of the romans had a weird idea of fun!!!
mates scooter into the traffic. I fell over on the cobbled street chasing him, but he had too much of a start. The cops were good, but there is little they can do, and the thieving little bastard was long gone. This happens all the time in Naples, turned me right off the place. Without security cameras, they will never catch them. My opinion, with its graffiti, rubbish everywhere, and high crime rate, not worth going to. Pizza for tea again, nice, but I'm nearly pizza'd out.
Restored bath inside a bathhouse, same room as the fountain
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Fountain inside one of the ruined buildings
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Part of the Amalfi coast road
12th
We left the hotel next morning towards Sorento for the ride along the Amalfi Coast, battling bad traffic over cobblestone roads, rough as, they would have better gravel. Just because they are over 1,000 years old....... I had run out of chain lube, and the chains were dry, so I stopped at a bike shop to buy some, but he didn't have any. "Wait" he said, and followed me up the street to the bikes with his oilcan and lubed them on the spot for me, then wouldn't take any money from me. Not all the people in Naples are thieves! The ride along the coast was well worth it, the scenery is spectacular, no other words for it. It is hard to look at the view, and concentrate on riding at the same time. The traffic was bad enough, it would be a nightmare at peak holiday season. The weather was superb, warm, with clear blue skies, that helps too. Lunch of fried fish overlooking the bay near Salerno, then we headed inland to Foggia. We couldn't get any accommodation or camping there, so ended up at Torremaggiore in a hotel at about 8.30pm, with the bikes safely locked away in a garage. The guy that owned the hotel told us of a good restaurant down the street for some takeaway, and it turned out the owner rides a Guzzi, so we chatted as much as we could when we speak no Italian, and he speaks very limited English. Food and wine were great though!
We left the hotel next morning towards Sorento for the ride along the Amalfi Coast, battling bad traffic over cobblestone roads, rough as, they would have better gravel. Just because they are over 1,000 years old....... I had run out of chain lube, and the chains were dry, so I stopped at a bike shop to buy some, but he didn't have any. "Wait" he said, and followed me up the street to the bikes with his oilcan and lubed them on the spot for me, then wouldn't take any money from me. Not all the people in Naples are thieves! The ride along the coast was well worth it, the scenery is spectacular, no other words for it. It is hard to look at the view, and concentrate on riding at the same time. The traffic was bad enough, it would be a nightmare at peak holiday season. The weather was superb, warm, with clear blue skies, that helps too. Lunch of fried fish overlooking the bay near Salerno, then we headed inland to Foggia. We couldn't get any accommodation or camping there, so ended up at Torremaggiore in a hotel at about 8.30pm, with the bikes safely locked away in a garage. The guy that owned the hotel told us of a good restaurant down the street for some takeaway, and it turned out the owner rides a Guzzi, so we chatted as much as we could when we speak no Italian, and he speaks very limited English. Food and wine were great though!
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Cheese and salami for tea in Torino de Sangro
13th-14th
As the guy in the restaurant told us, we rode around the knob of land that sticks out into the sea from Manfredonia, around to Vieste, and to Rodi Garganico, before continuing up the east coast. He was right, the views along the coast were well worth the detour. Blue skies and warm weather, so we continued north to a campsite at Torino de Sangro, as we want a couple of days in Venice, and we have to be in Austria next week. Occasionally, Lyns bike would cut out, so I changed the spark plug at lunchtime, seemed to help. We continued on up the coast towards Venice, and needed to make up some time, so took the boring motorway, much quicker though. Toll cost was 13 euro, bloody thieves. We found a campsite at Viserbi, set up the tent, then managed to get a steak for tea, first for a long time, it was great! There was a little bit of rain on the tent as we went to sleep.....
As the guy in the restaurant told us, we rode around the knob of land that sticks out into the sea from Manfredonia, around to Vieste, and to Rodi Garganico, before continuing up the east coast. He was right, the views along the coast were well worth the detour. Blue skies and warm weather, so we continued north to a campsite at Torino de Sangro, as we want a couple of days in Venice, and we have to be in Austria next week. Occasionally, Lyns bike would cut out, so I changed the spark plug at lunchtime, seemed to help. We continued on up the coast towards Venice, and needed to make up some time, so took the boring motorway, much quicker though. Toll cost was 13 euro, bloody thieves. We found a campsite at Viserbi, set up the tent, then managed to get a steak for tea, first for a long time, it was great! There was a little bit of rain on the tent as we went to sleep.....
Seafood doesn't get much fresher.......
15-16th
Lyn's bike was cutting out again, didn't want to start, will have to spend some proper time on it. Got it going, then continued on up to Chioggia, where you can have a seafood meal straight off the trawler. It's a nice little place, marina, sailing, fishing port, and also a ferry terminal. We got some light rain after we left there, was getting a lot cooler too. We had booked into a B&B near Padova, about 30 kms from Venice, for a couple of nights, so spent the next day doing the tourist thing
Lyn's bike was cutting out again, didn't want to start, will have to spend some proper time on it. Got it going, then continued on up to Chioggia, where you can have a seafood meal straight off the trawler. It's a nice little place, marina, sailing, fishing port, and also a ferry terminal. We got some light rain after we left there, was getting a lot cooler too. We had booked into a B&B near Padova, about 30 kms from Venice, for a couple of nights, so spent the next day doing the tourist thing
Lyn on a canal bridge
again. We spent the day walking around Venice, where we had a shitty overpriced lunch, and arrived home at around 9.00pm. Pizza for tea, but better than the lunch.
I went to the local Yamaha dealer looking for a fairing for Lyn's bike, but got a clutch cable inner for 3 euro instead. I had been looking at the price of petrol compared to diesel, it's about 15-20 cents a litre dearer than diesel, so almost everything runs on diesel, even the small cars, not sure if it's the taxes that turn it around in Australia?
I went to the local Yamaha dealer looking for a fairing for Lyn's bike, but got a clutch cable inner for 3 euro instead. I had been looking at the price of petrol compared to diesel, it's about 15-20 cents a litre dearer than diesel, so almost everything runs on diesel, even the small cars, not sure if it's the taxes that turn it around in Australia?
Where could I be?
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Is that Mick Dundee up there?
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Views on the road to Trento
17th
Another late start, spent the morning checking over the bikes, and doing some blog, then headed off along flat straight roads to Vincenza, then things changed as we climbed up towards Trento. Fantastic views up and over the range at Asiago, and as it's Sunday, everyone with a bike is out there. Stopped at the top for a lunch, then a very sobering ride down, as the police had closed the road, and a rescue chopper was taking out an injured biker. Arrived in Trento, and started looking for a hotel
Another late start, spent the morning checking over the bikes, and doing some blog, then headed off along flat straight roads to Vincenza, then things changed as we climbed up towards Trento. Fantastic views up and over the range at Asiago, and as it's Sunday, everyone with a bike is out there. Stopped at the top for a lunch, then a very sobering ride down, as the police had closed the road, and a rescue chopper was taking out an injured biker. Arrived in Trento, and started looking for a hotel
Theres a town down there..
or campsite, when a guy in the car next to us yells out "where are you from?" I told him Australia, and he wants to talk to us. After pulling over and chatting for a while, Marco and his family helped us get a room in a hostel, the last beds in town, as there is a festival going on. We would have had to ride on if it wasn't for them, great people, and a real help. It also turns out Marco is a winch man on the rescue chopper we saw earlier. We booked into the hostel, then out for tea. The plan was to ride the Stelvio pass tomorrow, can't wait.....
Bugger, no way through....
18th
From Trento west to the start of the Stelvio was great riding and scenery, but when we got there, the road was closed. Apparently they had too much snow, and it wouldn't be open for a few days. We then headed back east, to Bolzano, really good roads over high passes, through snow covered mountains. Stopped for a drink in a small town, and met a guy called Lars and his friend on GS1200's, they were going to the Stelvio...... We ended up at Bolzano, about 50 kms north of where we started
From Trento west to the start of the Stelvio was great riding and scenery, but when we got there, the road was closed. Apparently they had too much snow, and it wouldn't be open for a few days. We then headed back east, to Bolzano, really good roads over high passes, through snow covered mountains. Stopped for a drink in a small town, and met a guy called Lars and his friend on GS1200's, they were going to the Stelvio...... We ended up at Bolzano, about 50 kms north of where we started
Sammy the Yammy checking out the mountains
from that morning, but after riding 300 kms??? We stayed with Sandro and Linda, Eli eliza's mum, who we had met in Germany last year. We got there late, but had a great night with lots of laughs, even though Sandro speaks no English. We met some guys in front of a bar while looking for their house, and George, one of them who rides a 1200 GS, asked me to catch up with him the next day, and he would give me the clues on good roads in the area. Thanks for that George.
Snow on one of the mountain passes
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Lars and his friend
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