Welcome to India!
10th March
We had previously gotten our visas online, and were the first to have done that for the day, so had to wait for the scanners to warm up, and we were fingerprinted, photographed, etc by some very friendly people, and stamped in for 30 days. They did not request to see our forward tickets, didn't care whether we had them or not, so I'm not sure if the Sri Lanka Airlines debacle was a scam to sell tickets or not. The tuk tuk driver wanted an exorbitant amount to take us the 40 kms to Fort Kochi where we were staying, so we caught a bus driven by Michael Schmaker for about $3.60 aud, for both of us. It dropped us off just near the guest house, so we checked in, then went out for a great meal at a local restaurant, with 3 drinks each, 2 courses, just under $20 aud. After going back to our room, we organised a houseboat on the Kerala backwaters for the following day.
We had previously gotten our visas online, and were the first to have done that for the day, so had to wait for the scanners to warm up, and we were fingerprinted, photographed, etc by some very friendly people, and stamped in for 30 days. They did not request to see our forward tickets, didn't care whether we had them or not, so I'm not sure if the Sri Lanka Airlines debacle was a scam to sell tickets or not. The tuk tuk driver wanted an exorbitant amount to take us the 40 kms to Fort Kochi where we were staying, so we caught a bus driven by Michael Schmaker for about $3.60 aud, for both of us. It dropped us off just near the guest house, so we checked in, then went out for a great meal at a local restaurant, with 3 drinks each, 2 courses, just under $20 aud. After going back to our room, we organised a houseboat on the Kerala backwaters for the following day.
Typical Kerala houseboat
11th-13th March
Up reasonably early in the morning, we had a 2 1/2 hour
trip in a tuk tuk to catch the houseboat, and we were the only passengers on the boat. There would be over a hundred of these boats on the backwaters, some a lot bigger than ours, which only had one cabin. They are all very similar in appearance though. The backwaters cover a huge area, with a few man made channels, and some of the water is use to irrigate rice paddies. We paid a bit extra for to use the air conditioning, as we had a few issues with mozzies, and it was too hot to close the windows here. We spent the night moored up against the bank, and headed back the next morning. The food
Up reasonably early in the morning, we had a 2 1/2 hour
trip in a tuk tuk to catch the houseboat, and we were the only passengers on the boat. There would be over a hundred of these boats on the backwaters, some a lot bigger than ours, which only had one cabin. They are all very similar in appearance though. The backwaters cover a huge area, with a few man made channels, and some of the water is use to irrigate rice paddies. We paid a bit extra for to use the air conditioning, as we had a few issues with mozzies, and it was too hot to close the windows here. We spent the night moored up against the bank, and headed back the next morning. The food
Ginger being dried prior to sale
and service was good, but it was quiet with just the two of us on board, would have been good with a group. Back to the guest house, and spent some time looking around Fort Kochi, markets, ginger market, etc, then a really nice lunch on the beachfront, about $12 aud fed us both, with drinks. That night we were moving on to Goa by train, leaving about 8.00pm. We had 2nd class allocated sleeper berths / seats, which means 4 people to a compartment, and it was good for a while, chatting to 2 other guys in the next compartment for a few stops, until our other seat holders turned up. That put a dampener on the night, they were both in their mid 60's popping heart tablets like lollies, and wanted to go to
Unusual hotel in Fort Kochi
bed. Lyn and I had to retire to our bunks above theirs, as their bunks were the lower seats we had been using. Our party buddies moved back to their seats, and we tried to doze off, listening to our new bunk buddies snoring and hacking through the night. Thank god they got off early in the morning. The train breakfast was an omelette, with two pieces of warm bread you couldn't eat. The bread here is sweet, the same as in Vietnam, ok with jam, but horrible with eggs and bacon.
14th-19th March
From the station at Madgoan, we ended up taking a tuk tuk the 72 kms to Aranbol Beach, where we had decided to stay for a few days. With nowhere booked to stay, we
14th-19th March
From the station at Madgoan, we ended up taking a tuk tuk the 72 kms to Aranbol Beach, where we had decided to stay for a few days. With nowhere booked to stay, we
Beach hut
were dropped off on a corner with our bags, feeling very lost. Heading towards the beach, we found somewhere to sit and have a drink and something to eat, and ended up booking a beach hut for the night. Very basic, no hot water, just a bed with a mozzie net, shower and toilet, and a couple of chairs on the verandah. After a swim in the small but OK beach break, and a couple of drinks, we retired for the night. We moved to a slightly cheaper hut the next day, same layout and facilities, but without exposed electrical wires under the shower nozzle, a little better finished!
After a walk around the area, I decided I have never seen so many Bob Marley shirts, floral happy pants,
After a walk around the area, I decided I have never seen so many Bob Marley shirts, floral happy pants,
The crowd gathering on dusk
unfettered breasts, dreadlocks, people seeking spiritual freedom, dudes walking around in their jocks, people swimming in the nude, bongo drums, and doers of Tai Chi in my whole life! This place makes Nimbin look like Wall Street. Never before have I sat and had such a large inhalation of the wild wood weed with my chicken tikka masala. This place is the epitome of anything goes. It doesn't bother us, it is quite entertaining people watching in a place like this. Every evening, everyone would gather on the beach to buy and sell trinkets, food, clothes, etc, and then the bongo drums would start, and continue until around 8.30, and there would be other music as well. On the
Black plastic fixing the fire damage
last night of our stay, we woke up to a strange orange glow outside, and then realised that the restaurant on the beach out front was on fire. People stated shouting, and throwing sand on it, and managed to put it out, only losing one corner of the building. The next morning, with black plastic over the burnt bit, it was business as usual. I was going down to take a photo of it the next day, wearing my HU tee shirt, when another HU member spotted it and spoke to me. Dan and Pheobe were staying up the beach, and by chance knew Juz, another biker from HU that we were going to meet today. They had ridden with him previously, so we got together and had a great chat, until we had to leave for Mapusa to catch our bus to Mumbai.
Myself, Lyn, Phoebe, Dan, and Juz at Basho's on the beach
20th-22nd March
The bus was quite comfortable, air conditioned, a double sleeper, bed about the size of a queen size, so plenty of room. We had to lay down though, there was no option to sit up and look out of the window. The other problem was there was no toilet on the bus, so we had to hang on for 2 1/2 hours until it stopped for a pee break, then another 2 1/2 hours for the next one. First lesson in Indian bus travel, don't drink and travel! I believe it's hard to pee into a plastic bag on a moving bus....... We arrived in Mumbai around 10.00 am, and caught a tuk tuk to our hotel, we were doing it in style for the next couple of nights, (well, more than last week), we needed
The bus was quite comfortable, air conditioned, a double sleeper, bed about the size of a queen size, so plenty of room. We had to lay down though, there was no option to sit up and look out of the window. The other problem was there was no toilet on the bus, so we had to hang on for 2 1/2 hours until it stopped for a pee break, then another 2 1/2 hours for the next one. First lesson in Indian bus travel, don't drink and travel! I believe it's hard to pee into a plastic bag on a moving bus....... We arrived in Mumbai around 10.00 am, and caught a tuk tuk to our hotel, we were doing it in style for the next couple of nights, (well, more than last week), we needed
Gate of India, Mumbai, near the port
Mumbai side street
reliable internet, and felt like we deserved a few luxuries, proper bed with sheets, real pillows, toilet with seat and paper, hot water, etc, so we are staying at the Ibis. After getting our room early and having a much needed shower, tea at a real air-conditioned shopping centre, then an early night to make up for the sleep we didn't get on the bus. Rising early next morning, we did a walking tour of Mumbai, taking in the Gate of India, Ghandis' residence, India's first railway station, Court house, etc, then a few hours at the museum, quite an interesting day. Tea that night was at Barbecue Nation, a chain of restaurants, not cheap by Indian standards, but great food, heaps of it, and better service. Deservedly
Lyn and I with our tour guides
#1 on Trip Advisor. As there has been a few bombings lately, security everywhere was pretty intense. All cars coming into the hotel were checked underneath with mirrors, and all bags scanned before going in the door. We walked through metal detectors at the entrance. A lazy start to Sunday, then a taxi to the airport to catch the plane to Delhi. The airport has machine guns in place as you drive up to it. There is security checks on hand luggage, 5 different passport checks and scans in the terminal, and a body search as well, and this is just for a domestic flight. A taxi took us to our hotel in Delhi, dodgy looking street, but the hotel and room are alright.
Mumbai didn't appeal, surprising amount of smog too.
Mumbai didn't appeal, surprising amount of smog too.
And here folks, we have the Taj....
23rd-29th March
Spent the day in Delhi having a look around the area, funny, the indians all wear long pants or jeans, collared shirts, and shoes, while the westerners wear indian happy pants, thongs, and singlet shirts??? Lyn was wearing shorts, and got her legs checked out more than ever before. We booked a bus trip to Agra to see the Taj, left at 6.00 am, and got back at 2.00 am the next morning, big day. Bus had A/C, but we needed to stuff paper in the vents when it got too cold. The english speaking guide included in the tour wasn't included, so that got messy when he wanted paying, but it got sorted out. We met some young uni students on the bus, they
Spent the day in Delhi having a look around the area, funny, the indians all wear long pants or jeans, collared shirts, and shoes, while the westerners wear indian happy pants, thongs, and singlet shirts??? Lyn was wearing shorts, and got her legs checked out more than ever before. We booked a bus trip to Agra to see the Taj, left at 6.00 am, and got back at 2.00 am the next morning, big day. Bus had A/C, but we needed to stuff paper in the vents when it got too cold. The english speaking guide included in the tour wasn't included, so that got messy when he wanted paying, but it got sorted out. We met some young uni students on the bus, they
Back street kids cricket team.
helped us with some food ordering, and looked after our bag while we visited a temple. After sleeping in, a tour around Delhi took in the main sights, India Gate, more temples, and the international cricket ground. It's strange, India's national game is hockey, but you never see anything to do with it anywhere, and cricket is everywhere. Our guide only spoke Englian, so we're not sure what some of the things we saw were....
We did find some street kids playing cricket in an old building site, this happens everywhere here. One of the things that I find annoying is the blatant overcharging of "foreigners", we pay 750 rupees to get in to the Taj, indians pay 20. It is the same for all the tourist places,
We did find some street kids playing cricket in an old building site, this happens everywhere here. One of the things that I find annoying is the blatant overcharging of "foreigners", we pay 750 rupees to get in to the Taj, indians pay 20. It is the same for all the tourist places,
Lyn at India Gate, Delhi
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The sign says it all.....
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Delhi police in ceremonial dress at India Gate
I don't mind paying a bit extra, but not 20 or 30 times more. We did another bus trip to Jaipur, the so called pink city, another early start, (up at 5.00am), and another late night, back at 3.30am next morning. We were supposed to be back at 11.00pm on both trips...... As usual, we were taken to some shops we didn't want to go to, and had to sit through the spiel before not buying anything. The people on the bus were good, a Malaysian couple, and the rest Indians, so there was a lot of ribbing about the Australia India WSC match being played that day, luckily we won. The fort and Amber Palace were good, the rest just OK. Once again, our English speaking
guide only spoke Englian, at about 3 times the speed of
guide only spoke Englian, at about 3 times the speed of
The Fort at Jaipur
light, so we had no hope of understanding him. At lunchtime, we were taken to a cafe which had to belong to some relation, none of the food on the menu was available, and even a can of soft drink was "impossible"
A sleep in after the early morning arrival back to Delhi, and a craving for some meat had us tracking down a Macca's for lunch, but they only have chicken, and that was some processed patty thing, so we won't bother with that again either. We found Sam's Bar the next day, and had a good italian lunch, a nice change. On our last
A sleep in after the early morning arrival back to Delhi, and a craving for some meat had us tracking down a Macca's for lunch, but they only have chicken, and that was some processed patty thing, so we won't bother with that again either. We found Sam's Bar the next day, and had a good italian lunch, a nice change. On our last
Tractor on the expressway to Jaipur
Water Palace, Jaipur
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Bus stop toilet, no water in, no pipe out, no roof, half walls
Main building, Jaipur
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day in Delhi, we went back to Sam's Bar to watch the WSC final. Tomorrow we are off to Nepal. We talked about India, if we came back, it would either be to do a ride down south, around Kerala, with Juz, or another ride up north around Leh.
